fiat cinquecento warm stalling
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Hi all My seicento currently has a habit of stalling
or almost stalling
. When you are slowing down and press the clutch in the revs will drop very quickly and if i am unlucky the car will stall. Usually it will just climb back up to idle revs. Now this is charatistic of a vacuum leak or possibly an idle motor fault However what i want to know is what changes as the car warm
s with regards
I have a small basic seicento 899cc the problem is the car runs fine when cold but after 5mins it stales at low revs and wont start off the key. It has a strong spark so is not electrical The pump primes ok but when it is warm
and i turn in over it wont start The inital turn fires but feels like no fuel is coming through. If I stall on a hill going down I can jump it no problem in second gear. I have
Originally Posted by fingers99 Less thhan that I think if you dont buy from fiat . But Id not get one from a scrappy as theyre pretty fragile (which is why a lot of people using aftermarket ECUs ditch them and go to hall effect ones). The one bolt missing phenomenon only occurs with 899 cars............. Mine does have a bolt missing on my 899cc TDC sensor but dont see how this could cause stalling only when warm nobody has explained why this could be the problem
Originally Posted by moonxx Mine does have a bolt missing on my 899cc TDC sensor but dont see how this could cause stalling only when warm nobody has explained why this could be the problem Expansion of metal. Get it sorted. Cheers D ycming thanked for this post
Good evening chaps and chapesses. I have currently purchased and been driving a Cento Sporting Abarth 1.1 for the past 4 days. I bought it when it needed some serious TLC. The head gasket water pump belts and a full service has been done to it. It now idles around 1250rpm which seems ok. The major issue I have is that when approaching a junction or roundabout when pressing the clutch in the revs drop
Yeah all the gaskets are new and they have all been checked for leaks. From cold it starts first time every time and idles around 14001500rpm then settles to 1250 rpm as it gets warm. After stalling again it starts straight away with no issues. Most of the time Im still rolling so I can do a quick on the fly bump start to keep me going. I have literally googled and searched the life out of this and cant for the life of me figure out whats wrong.
Idle speed when warm should be 800 give or take. Overtight throttle cable (should have plenty of slack) someone messing with throttle stop (check throttle is closed). Failing that air leak.
Hey i was just wondering if anyone would be able to help me please when im driving along once the car is warm
ed up and i goto accelerate the revs drop right down to 0 then shoot back up to the revs the car was previously. feels like the car is jerkingjuddering along almost like its stalling
but then cutting straight back in. was wondering could this be due the induction kit that has been fitted gulping in hot air or could it be the clutch on its way out cheers for help in advance guys
if it was a electronics fault would it not do it all the time rather than just when the cars warm where abouts should i check connections and ill have a look at it now
Ok weve got a new gasket in the TB and its all sealed. There are NO vaccum leaks in the induction system yet it still stalls out if Em coasts it for more than a second. Could this be anything else Please help its getting desperate now JonEm
map is clear took my compressor to the pipe after it started stalling out. checked it last week and it was fine. it only does it on the move. although the idle does seem to waver a little whilst it warms up seems to do a few thousand revs then rises a bit then falls etc. it only stalls on the move the engine drops to 0rpm instantly if you try and coast it like when changing gear before a cornerroundabout
Originally Posted by Maninacan Wow - this sounds exactly like my car - im going out now to check my earths Out doing it now - found three earths - one on each inner wing and a second on the drivers side inner wing going from battery negative to engine block. Took them off cleaned them up put them back on started it up no different Are there any other earths i need to do Mine ticks over rough from cold
Hi everyone. I have recently put my mpi seicento back on the road however I am having issues with it. The main aside from a fastish puncture is that under braking the car will stall. This occurs when slowing down from highish speed. I use up all the stored vacuum and then when I put the clutch in to change down or stop then the engine will stop I can also get it to do it when stationary. If I hold
Hi Thanks for replies have taken car out and got it nice and warm. This has now caused it too cut out. It wont idle for very long at all. Anything over idle is fine. Have taken air filter off and its pretty manky so first step is to give it a good clean out. Heres hoping that will solve it. Will also check vac hoses. Many thanks Tom
Right i have a sei 1.1 Sporting Abarth 1998 when i drive it it drives nicely but when i come to a stop quite sarpish (not harshly) and clutch it to a stop line i.e. a junction it dies the revs just plumet and it stalls a real pain. Could this just be a sign that it needs new plugs and leads I will hopefully get it serviced next week. I dont know if this is linked in any way but it has an oil leak. Many Thanks
spotted this today on a car site i was browsing. would this work or is it utter cr4papologies if it is quote Hi what u need to try is resetting the ECU . You have do this in this order 1) Start the engine and warm it up till the cooling fan has come on gone off and come on again. If the engine cuts out restart it (The cooling fan operates around 90 centridge.) 2) Once the fan has come on for the second
Agreed if it was the silicon in fuel problem it wouldnt run beyomd warm up at any time. I find it strange that during the wont start one of your problems that the problem cant be identified. It is very difficult when the car gets to the garage and performs perfectly but it should be easy enough when its not actually starting. Cheers D
I know people have posted about this before but Ive read the threads and knowing posted how they fixed it so here we go It ticks over fine but if you rev it and let it drop it drops to quick and almost stalls. On the move it sometimes stalls when you take your foot off the accelerator and put the clutch in usually when changing gear before a corner. Im not sure quite what could be the problem my thoughts
spotted this today on a car site i was browsing. would this work or is it utter cr4p quote Hi what u need to try is resetting the ECU . You have do this in this order 1) Start the engine and warm it up till the cooling fan has come on gone off and come on again. If the engine cuts out restart it (The cooling fan operates around 90 centridge.) 2) Once the fan has come on for the second time turn the
Hi all Been having a few issues with my 98 Cinq sporting cutting out and then being hard to start and today it refused to start from cold. Took about 5 mins of trying to turn it over before it even sounded like it was trying. Until today its always started 1st time but ive had the cutting out problem for about a week. When its running its lovely but it tends to cut out as i approch a junction when
Meter across the sender set to resistance. You are looking for a very high resistance when the car is cold reducing as the car gets warmer. If the temp sensor thinks the car is colder or hotter than it actually is it will send the wrong amount of fuel. This all assumes you have fuel and spark which you need to check first. Cheers SPD
Hi everyone Further to my thread about my sei cutting out I thought it was due to operating the brakes but that appears to not be the case. As fingers alluded too it may be the rad fan now this doesnt come on I think that the car stalls when it tries to start the fan. But I am not sure. Luckily I have an calibrated ir temperature monitor so was able to measure temps in the engine bay. The rad was about
Just to update I found the fan relay and shorted out the output terminals and the fan runs fine. So I am thinking that it is the crank sensor that is causing the issue it is only happening when slowing down from a higher speed ie off a motorway. I guess that heat soak from slowing down is causing the crank sensor to become intermittant. It also does it when manoeuvring although that may just be me stalling it Will report back once I have found time to fit my spare SPI crank sensor.
Just to confirm The stalling issue seems to have been fixed.
Hi I posting here on behalf of a workmate. She has a P plate cinquecento
that has recently started stalling
when she brakes and idles really erratically. The engine managemnet light also flicks on and off randomly. I know from vauxhalls that usually this would signify a Lamda fault and would log a code to the ECU ... is it possible to code read the ECU on the cinquecento
If so how Any ideas what could cause these symptoms Cheers
Hi Idle control valve is arrowed in the picture.. Thanks Paul T Attached Thumbnails   __________________ fiat Forum Useful Links Donate to FF    Buy FF Merchandise    Classifieds    FF Insurance    How-to Guides    FAQs   Quote   07-08-2005   8 Asteris Get Your Own Title   Join Date Mar 2002 Location Thessaloniki Posts 441 Thanks 9 Trader
Ive just ordered one off ebay for my s reg seicento sporting but ive just looked under bonnet and there seems to be more going on than just the filter lol.. you have the main box with the filter then pipes coming off to the right into another box are theses units easy to fit Ive ordered the right one but it aint arrived yet....... Daz
everybody is saying somthing else about ecu reset-i got this from unknown source ECU Re-setting Instructions (extract from Manual) 50 Start the engine and run it until it has reached normal operating temperature. Keep the engine running until the cooling fan switches on then off then on again for a second time. If at any time during this warm-up procedure the engine stalls restart it immediately.
On my way to work this morning I was coming down a hill to a set of lights (red) so as usual I dropped it into 2nd and started braking but (with the clutch down) the battery and oil lights came on and the revs dropped to zero. As soon as I lifted the clutch though it was all normal again (as if it had bump started as it was still rolling downhill) now admittedly I had my music up quite loud so couldnt
If it helps it does idle funny when first started and cold (didnt do it when it was warmer) but (just to confuse even more) when it was really warm last sunday and I was stuck in traffic the revs were barely above zero when stationary had to hold the throttle open slightly to stop it stalling. Im wondering if its a sensor needing replaced
its a seicento sporting t reg ive tried bumping it. filling it up with petrol changed spark plugs tried the jump leads .. cleaned all the ht leads what else can be wrong with ....
Hi It sounds really like a fault I had on my cinq last winter Check the big electrical connector at the front of the engine bay. disconnect it (its got a sort of locking mechanism you have to push before it will separate) and make sure all of the pins are clean and not corroded clean them all any way. If it is the same as mine the intermittant fault keeps putting fault codes into the ECU which is why
You can tell i havent got much work on this week Given the number of posts from folk having cold starting and idle problems - do modified sporting CinqsSeis not have worse problems When you take the factory airbox set-up out you also lose some of its cold start system so surely cold start and tickover becomes more of a problem than in the standard car After my troubles with the roadpea im keen to have
Originally Posted by arseofbox Id suggest that unless youre inhaling puddles or small lochs small bits of water (as caused in carb icing inlet icing) isnt going to affect things massively - as the system measures the inlet air temperature and can adopt different ignition strategies at certain points. My Cinq 1242 (small TB P75 cam ) doesnt idle too quietly its always been rather lumpy too Arse Carb
Its nothing major but its annoying me now. When i cold start her shell start fine and idle fine. However the battery light is on and the lights are a bit dim. (Its undercharging at around 11.8v). If i then rev past around 2k the light goes off the lights go bright and it jumps to around 14.5v. After that idleing isnt so much fun. The vacuum gauge shows nearer 15inHG (normal idle is 20) The engine shudders
Can anybody help me please Last week i bought a Cinq sporting 95 N with 50k miles on The car ran superb then a friend of mine offered to change the cam belt as a favour as ive been helping him out alot recently. Wen i got the car back it was coughing and spluttering and cutting out. We realised the pipe from the injection to the air intake on the air filter had broken off so we glued it back on and
Ive found the MAP sensor but everything looks OK - its all connected at both ends. However I did find a tiny hole in the pipe going from under the air filter to the air intake on the air filter Ive sealed it with some tape for now but it was very very tiny - could this be the cause of my problems It didnt start first time why I tried it - not a good sign. Other symptoms ive noticed are that the car
Hello from Spain So a few weeks back i bought myself a little 95 cinq sporting. I bought itcause of the rising fuel prices so i could save money on fuel - my other car is a truck.. And driving 100km a day in that thing makes your salary ridiculously low..And remember im already living in spain on a spanish salary - so imagine that.. Anyways. I chose the cinq sporting cause life is too short for boring
I have a 1999 Seicento Sporting 1.1 which runs really well and idles steadily. However every so often it will simply cut-out whilst idling in traffic no warning the engine just dies. It then has to be left for a few minutes before it will re-start and will then run as if nothing had happened. I have changed battery (it needed one) plugs leads and sprayed liberally with WD40. My next step will be to replace the coil pack this weekend. Any other suggestions after that
Idle control valve may need sorting HOWEVER i used to get this at traffic lights also random stalling and then fine it tended to happen more when car wasnt warmed up. It was instantly fine and fired up straight away and didnt take a few mins.