Hey folks. Got the same mystery knocking on mine ..... just been pretending its not there Then turned out my sort of cousin-type-thing had the same on his.... turned out to be sub chassis rubbers bushes... Dealer said cant replace just the bushes need whole sub chassis at a cost of ...... You gotta be %in Kidding So he found a friendly garage who fixed it with some cut up truck inner tube for a few beer tokens ...... still yet to do mine tho. Hope this of some help
Hello chaps. Cheers for the replies so far. So far I have renewed the ARB drop links. What a job Looks simple but you just cant get the nuts off. And the allen key recess in the end of the thread stem is next to useless as with just a little bit of pressure the allen key just slips round in the hole. After half an hour of struggling I chopped the bloody things off with an angle grinder. Five minutes
rear subframe bushes did you check the front ARB bushes with the car jacked up if so most of the play will be taken out by the way the suspension hangs. ideally you need it on a 4 poster ramp or over a pit then grab hold of the ARB both sides and give it a bloody good rocking other multipla favourites are the radius arms but these make more of a crack than a knock.
Ha ha Just come back from having the rear shockers replaced and the vast array of rattling and knocking noises I was getting have completely gone Also she feels tighter at the rear and now essentially feels like a new car again. Really pleased. So to recap before blaming ARB bushes drop links or subframe mounts just wiggle your rear shocks and see if they clunk. Could be them instead. Thanks to all who replied. All useful stuff.
Well Admin may aswel close this thread. Got all sorts of answers from a previous thread. its good that search function isnt it lol
Yep Its all there for the finding... Good luck
check inside the spring first where the bump stop is . i had a knocking from the back end . but found the bum stop had rusted through the metal.
Originally Posted by simo817 check inside the spring first where the bump stop is . i had a knocking from the back end . but found the bum stop had rusted through the metal. Thank you please.
In response to the knocking sound my partner said has corrected me & said NO...Its more like a creaking when you go around a corner...like youd get on an old boat (where he got that comparison I dont know). My description would be that the sound is like the tyres (or something near the tyres) is catching on something. The noise is worse when turning shaarp left or right. Neither my partner or myself
my jtd is a 51 plate and has done 112000 serviced and relativley fault free apart from the knocking issues rear wheel bearings maf sensornew rear drums handbrake cables replaced As for knocking issues we now effectivley have a new front end on the car fiat replaced front springs in the recent recall (altough they never did contact me) in doing so they damaged osf shock mounting so ended up replacing
It will be the ar bar bushes. i changed mine without undoing either ball joints . just removing drop links then pull ar bar through . i also changed the wishbones(and associated bushes). The front end silence that ensued revealed a rear wheel bearing rumble (os)-now its changed were back to total silence Only got to fix the inside rear lights both sunroofs the heater control illumination and the front
Hi To help to answer your question I have replaced the front sub frame bushes with the ones for the Bravo FirstLine part FSM2026 IIRC which stopped the knocking from pot holes etc. I replaced these on both sides of the car which made a massive difference to the ride however I had to fit these with washers between the bushing and the bolt head as they are thinner than the originals but were available
If you jack the car up at the rear jacking on the chassis not on the subframe or trailing arms then look at the four bushes. Youll see a gap between the subframe and the upper flange of any bush that is loose in the subframe. Lever lightly with a large screwdriver (between the top of the subframe and underside of each bushs upper flange) to make sure theyre all tight in their bores. Edit The rubber
had my front suspension apart yesteday. General check and to replace the droplinks as one was worn. my car was motd 4 months ago and the knocking noise which is a worn ARB rubber was just an advisory. After checking yesterday it appears my rear bush on the passengers side front wishbone is badly worn too but was very difficult to find with the old big metal bar and lever routine. instead i had to put
Originally Posted by kev78 had my front suspension apart yesteday. General check and to replace the droplinks as one was worn. my car was motd 4 months ago and the knocking noise which is a worn ARB rubber was just an advisory. After checking yesterday it appears my rear bush on the passengers side front wishbone is badly worn too but was very difficult to find with the old big metal bar and lever
Good piece of advice. I have a knocking from the rear too so I will be looking at my subframe ...
Hi again guys ive checked my front end and all seems ok Its coming from the back any help with the rear sub frame bushes please
I know this was posted a good while ago but Ive just had a very nasty shock from my fiat dealer when I enquired about getting a replacement set of these bushes as it seems the rubber bit between the chassis and the subframe has all but vanished causing a loud knocking noise every time I go over a bump. Apparently the bushes are not available as a replacement part needing to buy the complete beam instead
Torsion bar Do you mean the radius arms or the shock absorber assembly Sure its not the subframe knocking this is a well known source of knocking Subframe knock is usually down to bushes failing plenty about this on this forum.
The roll bar at the front has rubber bushes...which are a common source of knocking and a cheap easy fix
Post Nr.13 and onwards for the relevant bits... Edit Also bear in mind some of my subsequent findings and comments. One of my replaced Mounts started knocking a few thousand miles later due to it coming loose from the subframe and I realised when looking at the layout of the suspension that the front mounts will have a fair amount of downwards loading on them a lot of the time when driving (braking
Originally Posted by widemouthfrog ...TBH I dont think theres much difference between the work involved in changing the the entire swingarm and just the bearings... That depends entirely on the state of the bearings and pivot bolts. If theyre as bad as mine were then its almost certainly a subframe-out job. If the bolts can be knocked through fairly easily then itd be much cheaper to replace just the
I changed the drop links this afternoon and its certainly got rid of a few rattles. Now I can hear my grumbling os rear wheel bearing really clearly now
17 mm spanner for the flats at rear of droplink. At least it was on mine.... A very easy job to do once you work out there are flats
Thanks to all for the answers I dont know wethever im gonna fix car as now there is a bad knocking coming from front suspension aswell...i look at tyre and inner is heavily worn on front too I think i spent enough money on it...anyone wants it
Sorry ive just re read your original post and realised they are what you where refaring to yep remove them. I removed mine to fit spacers for my old wheels and one rounded off so if it happens its not the end of the world just take a hammer to them knocking them up then down they should free off but dont hit too hard as they can snap off. As long as you have at least one to put back on you should be ok they are only to centralise the drum on the hub.
how do you check if your going or gone is there a knocking noise when going around corners or hitting bumps. and how much will it cost two replace
I changed just the bearings Got the kit from shop4parts cheap as chips. Changing the complete arm or just the bearings still require you to remove the complete arm. The only tricky bit if you get a kit is removing and replacing the bearings. knocking the old ones out is straight forward but if you are doing it yourself like i did you will need to compress the new ones in. conanhoward thanked for this post
in the next few days. Could you please suggest things that I should look out for - common faults etc. Also how easy is the multipla to work on for a fairly competent home mechanic Do any jobs require expensive special tools etc. What are parts prices like Any suggestions would be most welcome or if this has been covered in previous threads a link would be really helpful Thanks A prospective fiat
I bought a multipla 110 jtd in may Is a 2001 model elx so is a good spec first diesel fiat engines are really good and troublefree if well looked after but multipla have problems like every other car... I had to replace many parts like brakes cambelt water pump filters and even fuel pumps...i have covered 6000 miles in it since may and car has never broke down on me and is a really confy car and the
under warranty or so i thought.the warranty was not worth the paper it was written onafter many phone calls and email to and i wont hesitate saying there namenorris brothers tamworthi have found myself out of pocket by about 600 quid thanks to there mistake in the warranty documentation.they told me they would sort the problem out but never havethanks to these cowboys i will never buy another fiat
For economy choose the diesel derivatives as they are so much more economical 42 knocking about is not uncommon and if possible for piece of mind buy one with a warranty. If necessary a third party warranty as they do have foibles like any other motor and it does help. Furthermore if funds allow get one with aircon as there is a lot of glass and they do get hot inside...however sunblinds from fiat