Thought Id post an update........... Fitted new springs and shocks thought Id treat the old bucket as the springs were original with 152k on them and the shocks at least 3 years old and as the roads are so crap that the toll on my suspension is becoming horrific I reckoned in for a penny etc. Anyway its not quite as straight forward as the you tube videos I watched on other cars as the springs are
realstokebloke Hi DC yes i cant belive the part would be a part of the actual cross member itself either. As above i will try to find the ePER page as a url and post it to follow... Right. Think thats five posts so... This page shows the spring the rubber stop and the enigmatically titled Thrust ring. The rubber stops part 5 (both sides) have dropped down as whatever retained them is corroded. fiat
Originally Posted by martyc5674 Ok I have one down aswell. And I can pop it back up using my fingers thru the spring...did it just now when I saw your post. Anyway thers a circa 10mm hole that the stopper pushes into on mine... Has yours corroded beyond that Id say the stopper originally had a mushroom head to prevent it coming back down Im going to try some windscreen glue to hold mine up.. but Im
Heres an excerpt from the MoT testers manual Sec 2.4.a a. Inadequate clearance of the axle or suspension with the bump stop or chassis b. a suspension unit so weak that the body or other part of the vehicle fouls a road wheel or would do so if the vehicle was laden. Note a missing bump stop rubber is not a reason for rejection. It appears that a non-existent bump-stop would be ok - but one rattling
Hi JTDman Thanks - yes (unfortunately) it does seem to be the case that they are a part of the subframe - and therefore the most expensive bung retaining devices on the planet. (Who designs these things Ludicrous but there we have it.) So yes i need a top subframe & would be interested to know what you have & so if you get back to me thatd be great thanks. When having a poke we noticed also that the
Not heard of a problem with the rear suspension most folks seem to have problems with the front springs....
It does look somewhat shorter but that is more than likely due to the photographs having been taken from a different perspective. Try measuring springs top to bottom on level ground that way you will know for sure if the off-side has weakened. I would think that a welding repair would be OK on the bump stop proving its neat and painted over Mr MoT man will be happy. Peat
looks like spring has snapped.check both endsthey should be like a bar cut with a hack saw bladeie flat if one end is pointedyou have lost abit.
Very Easy remove wheel. undo the lower shock absorberr bolt. and the 3 that hold the anto roll bar on. push the plastic clip out of the bottom of the spring. get a helper to push the suspension arm down and the spring pops out. Really easy 30 min job S
I used a hydraulic jack to push the suspension arm just enough to fit the screw for the shock absorber. Found it easier than using spring compressor.
hello cheers for the reply cant find a complete arm replacement just for the bushes itself to take the arm itself off do u have to take of the spring and shockstrut off never done anywork like this before but starting to get the hang of it now with all the probs ive had with my car
Ive not done it myself but thinking shocks springs abs stuff poss brake cables but will be worth it.
being twisted. So the resistance of the bar - its an anti-roll bar - to this twisting tries to keep the car level as it corners so you dont end up falling out of your seat. When the rubber bushes wear out they can no longer hold on to the middle of the roll bar allowing it to waggle around a bit and eventually hit some other metal bits under the car so you get a clanking. Thats at the front. The multipla
Originally Posted by hastingsmum Ok so I might as well post another issue I have with my jtd ... I havent had the car long and it came with a snapped nsf spring which had to be done for the MOT along with that strut top mount and track rod end. I have the matching parts and plan to fit these next weekend. On the rear it has one brand new shock absorber and both springs are rusty so have matching shock
the springs etc Or anything else that need looking at whilst Im there anyway Not sure if the Front springs are still covered by the Recall... Recall for Front springs breaking Id check the Trailing Arms for playlean. Looking from behind look for any leaning of the rear Wheels they lean in at the top if the Arms Bearings (wrongly called Bushes a lot) are on their way out quite a common fault on multiplas.
Both really the shocks control the rate that they rebound but if springs are poor the the return is going to be slower. Eibach allways been a favoured spring but unsure if they make them for the multi i think novitec do. The shock absorbers may not be listed either for the multi but other cars use the same like ive got a set of rears which i bought for my Alfa 155 q4 but just happen to fit the multi as well .
Originally Posted by JTDman Both really the shocks control the rate that they rebound but if springs are poor the the return is going to be slower. Eibach allways been a favoured spring but unsure if they make them for the multi i think novitec do. The shock absorbers may not be listed either for the multi but other cars use the same like ive got a set of rears which i bought for my Alfa 155 q4 but just happen to fit the multi as well . JTD what brand of shocks
That looks very much like the rubber mountcollar that the top of the rear coil springs fits into. It has a recess with a stop moulded into it and the end of the top of the coil spring butts up against it the tag end on the underside of the item in your photo looks like this stop end. I also seem to remember the top of my mounts were moulded like the one in your picture. Hope that helps a bit. BTW does the Mandolys site have an English translator on it
the strut rod - thats about where the top of the spring is.The distance from the shoulder at the top of the strut plunger rod to the upper bolt hole in the bracket that fits to the wheel hub is around 470mm but this is not easy to measure. The strut installation is very snug and the space envelope (i.e. the void that the strut sits in) is quite complex. I would think that bagriders would need a multipla
6 speed gearbox together with cruise control would improve economy and reduce noise levels at motorway speeds. Self-levelling rear suspension option would have been good as the rear has to cope with no weight right up to max AUW and is too hard when light. 2.4 JTD engine would be too heavy Multis break enough front springs as it is JTD 1.9 16v unit puts out 140bhp which is enough of an increase to
Originally Posted by T14086 want to talk about it...were here to help Ok therapy session imminent.......Bought a 2000 JTD 110 2years ago54know on 85kmost practical brilliant car Ive ever ownedbut also the most unreliable. The list of woes . Front suspension...drop linkslower armsnow ARBar bushes banging away. hand brake cable rear cylinders leaking front springs recalldealer says top mounts shot and
90000 on a W 2000 plate. Bought it 2 years ago with 58k on the clock and had done nothing to it (except service and timing belt when I got it to be safe) until this year and have had to change a front spring that just snapped 2 rear suspension arms and some bushes on the anti-roll bar. Everything else seems fine and has been 100% reliable engine wise. Although its not too great at pulling its own weight (1.9JTD 105).
I must confess Ive had to wimp out on the clutch and DMF fitting. Im so busy with work at the moment that Ive had to pay someone to do it. Of all the fitting jobs it was the one I was least looking forward to so I cant say Im too disappointed. Its a job thats a lot easier for two people to do (I havent got a second bod to hand) and on a ramp (I havent got one of those either). I am looking forward
Lots of things to check on Multis but well worth it very spacious car which handles reasonably well economical (Diesel) and fairly easy to service. Front suspension check for play on lower wishbones as this causes front tyres to wear out very quickly. Coil springs prone to breaking so check these. Drop links (connecting front suspension to roll-bar) wear out ball-joints check for play. Anti-roll bar
I bought mine a JTD 105-2000 with 130bhp tuning at 68000 miles110000km and ive had it for 35 years (atm 155000 miles250000km) now without any big problems. I drive app. 25000 miles a year. The following bigger items are replaced The clutch is changed twice at 75000 and 149000 miles. Both rear wheel bearings kits (left 75000 and right 100000) rear Swing arms are changed at 120000 and the front suspension and springs at 100000 generator at 149000 that was it good luck
It was all quite straightforward once I had the tools around me and the tightening torques. It took me just over an hour for each side. Jack up the car. Remove the wheel. Support the car on an axle stand. Slide the rubber retainer for the brake pipe out of the bracket on the suspension damper. Disconnect the brake pad wear cable (LH side only) - my cable is sliced off anyway Remove the spring
The Doblos basic make-upfloor pan is unique as is the multiplas. I think that has been mentioned else where in the forum The rear suspension is a simple beam between the hubs and uses cart springs with rubber bump stops. Its simple and effective especially when heavily laden. If you buy a Doblo I think you may have gone the wrong route for a MAX Power feature spread 0) Remember if it looks like a van - itll probably handle like a van...