OK if you have right-hand-drive (well duh I see now youre in the UK -)) then yes wheel must come off because brake servo-master cylinder is in the way above the alternator. The wheel arch shield has a couple of small 7mm-head bolts into the wheelarch behind the wheel. Then its a matter of flexing it around slightly so that you can unclip it from the lip of the wing. I find if you pull the inside upper
For example there was a question to a magazine where the light would only go off once over a certain RPM. It turned out the warning light was originally for a dynamo and was of insufficient wattage - the bulb was not giving enough current flow to set up the magnetic field in the stationary outside windings. A light went on in my head (if youll excuse the pun) because I have noticed that in an uno
though -) The engine running unevenly should really not be caused by excessive drivebelt tension... it sounds as though the alternator pulley could be out of alignment with the engine if the uneven running really is due to the belt being tight. If you think the timing belt may be responsible for the noises why not try removing the alternator drivebelt and see if the noises continue... A friends uno
with new drive belt worse case is its both. If you&8217re not sure of cam belt history even if its not noisy its also worth doing coz they can just snap. If you do remove the cam belt&8217s plastic cover be careful of rusty bolts. Use new ones if you can as I sheared one completely when refitting. Luckily that was least important one. Louie Bee. Attached Thumbnails     __________________ fiat
Umm.. good info but this thread is over 7 years old.. It doesnt have 2 beaings by the way there are 2 bolts that connect it to the engine. One to pivot the alternator on and the other to keep the tension in the belt. Its far easier to remove the alternator through the wheel arch by the way - take the wheel off first obviously.
Originally Posted by yengulamit You can ask your mechanic or yourself do it. Jus jack up the car from the front right and loosen the bolts ands wiring harness. Remove the alternator. Has two bearings small and big. Get them replaced and it shud work. afetr fitting check if its charging the batt(very Imp) Thanks for the advice though I dont think the original poster will read it as they only ever made
Id like to un-thanks Ucofs post above Its a perfectly reasonable idea to refurbish the alternator. The main items that wear are the brushes and the front bearing but if the rear bearing feels dry then Id replace that too. Then the alternator should be good again for some time. Brush replacement requires soldering (with a big soldering iron gas-powered or 80W electric) unless you buy a replacement brushholder
Originally Posted by alexGS Its a perfectly reasonable idea to refurbish the alternator... Brush replacement requires soldering (with a big soldering iron gas-powered or 80W electric) unless you buy a replacement brushholder complete.... Its easiest to get the pulley off if you have an air impact gun So Ill get myself a gas powered soldering iron and an air impact gun rather than just getting a new
The uno 1.o i.es had 55 amp ones fitted although they are tough to find and expensive new. Had to find one as the 55A barely copes when i put the spotlights (130w bulbs x 2) and the fan on (uno Turbo fan).
Try demon tweaks they sell uprated ones (not for unos) but could probably be made to fit. But even then they only go up to 100110Amp. At that sort of power you need a generator not an alternator
If you were going for sound quality Id have thought you could have managed with 1000W RMS which is about 75A. You must be going for sound power level... in which case you need double the power each time to make a 3dB gain (I guess you already know this ) - hope youre not actually sitting in the car with the 3000W RMS let alone 6000W or 12000W... Also think of the WEIGHT of all that gear... the uno
Originally Posted by alexGS Also think of the WEIGHT of all that gear... the uno will be struggling... 25seconds 0-60mph I bet -Alex Yup it already goes a bit slow Has around 6 sheets of 1 inch 8x4 birch ply in it. Ive had some success today. Removed current alternator and sketched up and made a bracket out of 14inch ply. Now need someone to make one out of steel. This is to fit a 120amp ford galaxy alt.
Sounds to me like something funky is up with the alternator. Thats obviously not related to the non-starting problem JSINN thanked for this post
I agree with uCof the alternator is probably drenched in oil and needs taking out and cleaning. Perhaps it has a faulty voltage regulator - you can get it tested at an auto electricians while you have it removed. Ideally you should see 12.3V at the battery with the engine not running then at least 13.2V at the battery with the engine running (may be up to 14.4V). Your figures are a long way off that.
Hi Guys thanks for the help I decided to replace all the sealsgaskets just waiting on dealer to get back to me as for the coil i replaced the new coil with my old coil the sprk seems to disappear between the coil and distributor ive sent the distributor to a auto elec. Gonna replace the alternator today... btw what other make alternators will fit my 1100cc uno besides a bosch
There is a module located on the dizzy and it is moer expensive. Try and source a test unit. From what you explained it sounds like the alternator though. Jump start with another car on the leads... she how she runs then. Is your alternator belt still there
Jai is right I seem to recall it was so much harder to change the alternator on the Turbo than it was on a normal uno... Though its simple in principle in practice its a fiddle (driveshaft out if I remember correctly). The alternator usually needs the exciter wire (thin wire attached that controls the warning light) in order to begin charging. Thats why the warning light has a bigger bulb than the
Found it myself. The alternator is located on the fanbelt rated at 24v 45Amps
Originally Posted by dave sounds more like bearings went then fins hit casing and bent yep I should think that is the more likely situation the cooling fins will hardly bend at all despite being levered on to get the center bolt out on an old Lucas alternator they are a solid little unit alternator bearings however can be very weak and often a squeaky belt that cant be sorted out is Alt bearings that dont hold the center properly
no the alternator bearings were fine the thins had actually all deformed uniformly outwards I saw it with my own eyes due to lots of centrifugal force on them if they hit the casing first they would bend the other way and round slightly after all she admitted she stuck it in the wrong gear at speed my dad had to remove the cooling thins and reshape them back in to were they should be I was amazed my
I change mine by dropping it from underneath the car. You dont need to remove the wheel arch liner either. Unbolt the alternator and it will just drop down on the drivers side drive shaft. You should then be able to pull the wheel arch liner (its quite flexible) enough so that there is enough space to get the alternator out. Refitting is just the same pull the wheel arch liner enough until you can get the alternator through it then bolt up as per normal
Hi. Thanks for your suggestions . I have done an ECU reset this morning and tightened the alternator belt (it was a bit on the slack side possibly) and now the engine is running nicely. I have noticed that it is running better now than before replacing the alternator brushes there seems to be more power at lower revs and runs smoother Thanks icestorm
on the bracket where the alternator is bolted on to and then this bracket is bolted to the engine blockhead.make sure you have an earth cable(use a ring end connector) so it can connect using the existing bolts at either end of the bracket and clean up the metal that the ring connectors sit onthis ensures the alternator body is earthed to the engine and thus to the engine main earth strap which you should incidently check as well Custard boy the man who loves the man from Creative
Yes and when driving youll get a higher voltage. Hence the car amplifiers are sometimes (not very serious I say) ratet in watts depending on 14 volts. When starting the alternator charges much more than when driving. Thats why some alternators whine when the car starts. Well its a worn belt that wines actually and needs replacing because it doesnt charge enough. Morten. abarth alloys steering wheel.
Now the alternator is working the wire to the lamp where broken... so easy when you found it. So if your battery runs flat because the alternator is not working and the battery lamp is never on.. then it is probably the wire to the lamp that is not correct.
Originally Posted by Kalel my mechanic aka my friend from down the road has come stuck at removing the alternator. He says the big bolt that holds it on is seized. he now wants to take the engine out which I dont want to do. Any ideas on getting this bolt to give He has hammered it with no joy. Cheers Hi there... as you probably know the head of the bolt fits into a hexagonal hole on the alternator.
Cheers Alex I just cant afford to pull out the whole engine to get an alternator off. Id rather smash it to bits and buy a new alternator