Anyone any ideas
BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERlock MECHANISM The Brake Transmission ShifterIgnition Interlock (BTSI) is a cable and solenoid operated system. It interconnects the automatic transmission floor mounted shifter to the steering column ignition switch. The system locks the shifter into the park position. The Interlock system is engaged whenever the ignition switch is in the lock or ACCESSORY position. An
The gizmo is the solenoid that keeps one from shifting out of park if key in OFF.
To adjust the brake With the tires off the ground. Pull the lever up three clicks. Use the adjuster at the wheel to spread the pads out so that you just get drag while turning the wheel. Thanks i figured ito ut and changed my post right as you posted that lol... However one side is completetly rusted.. It will not turn not even a Centimeter. Adjusting the other side tho like 10 turns stops the jeep
Its pulling one shoe into the rotor hat and locking the rotor. Either the shoes are too far out or one is grooved out and grabs. When you go to pulling stuff off take notice of the levers and see if they arent seized up. The backing plates could be crap at the shoe contact points. Just guesses I hope the rotor comes off easily for you.
Quote Originally Posted by Turbobearcat just found this on how to adjust the brake cable tension httpwww.lostjeeps.comforumphpBB...ngbrakecable That is not a adjustmentthat is actually the parking brake lockout when replacing the cables themselfs and does nothing.There is no adjustment for the disc brake parking brakes as they are self adjusting.You have a parking brake issuetime to tear the brakes apart and inspect.
Yep all 02 KJs have rear drum brakes so the parking brake uses the actual rear service brake shoes. If the parking brake does not holdread in owners manual actually what the parking brake is designed to do as it may suprise youthen you should have really crappy brakes under normal drivingstopping. If you can not adjust the parking brake any further then you need new rear brakesshoes and drumsas the
try this I think i have the list for 97. at home ill check FUSES & CIRCUIT BREAKERS 1993 jeep cherokee Fuses & Circuit Breakers 1993-95 jeep jeep cherokee IDENTIFICATION FUSES & CIRCUIT BREAKERS The fuse block is to the left of the steering column under the instrument panel. Fig. 1 Fuse Panel Identification (1993-95) Courtesy of Chrysler Corp. FUSE & CIRCUIT BREAKER I.D. (PASSENGER COMPARTMENT) 1 -
ADJUSTMENTS GEARSHIFT cable Check adjustment by starting the engine in park and Neutral. Adjustment is OK if the engine starts only in these positions. Adjustment is incorrect if the engine starts in one but not both positions. If the engine starts in any position other than park or Neutral or if the engine will not start at all the park neutral position switch (NSS) may be faulty. Gearshift Adjustment
Quote Originally Posted by 7urtle ok. how exactly do i adjust it. if the internal linkage is damaged is that a replaceble part Gearshift Adjustment Procedure (1) Shift transmission into park. (2) Raise vehicle. (3) Release cable adjuster clamp (at transmission end of cable) to unlock cable. (4) Unsnap cable from cable mounting bracket on transmission. (5) Slide cable eyelet off transmission shift lever.
From FSM GEARSHIFT cable ADJUSTMENT Check adjustment by starting the engine in park and Neutral. Adjustment is OK if the engine starts only in these positions. Adjustment is incorrect if the engine starts in one but not both positions. If the engine starts in any position other than park or Neutral or if the engine will not start at all the parkneutral position switch may be faulty. Gearshift Adjustment
Leave in bracket Unlock the cable clamp Pop the end off the shift lever At the transmission Place lever fully in park Rotate adjustment collar at the bracket till you can pop the end back on the lever lock it down If no adjustment was needed you have other problems.
This is from the 94 GC Shop Manual TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE AND SHIFT cableS Transmission throttle cable adjustment is important to proper operation. This adjustment positions the valve body throttle valve which controls shift speed quality and part throttle downshift sensitivity. If cable setting is too short early shifts and slippage between shifts may occur. If the setting is too long shifts
Had a similar problem on a Comanche a while ago...was the parking brake cable.
Quote Originally Posted by lyleorszulak807 Only on one side Do you remember what was wrong and the fix The park brake cable from the park brake pedal (bench seat no center console) went to an equalizer bar from which 2 other cables were attached each going to one of the two rear wheels. We replaced the froze up (rusted) bad cable going to the locked up rear wheel. However shortly thereafter we ended
Under the jeep above your rear driveshaft there is a cable with a Splitter that goes to each parking brake. It has the adjuster nut for the e-brake. Use a ratcheting closed-end wrench to save some elbow grease. Lots of adjustment in mine so I just soaked it with PB Blaster penetrator and turned it until my parking brake was firm and will lock up the rear tires at 10mph with all of my might. I have rear disc so the drum shoes for the parking brake are only used as a parking brake.
Quote Originally Posted by Josef86 Under the jeep above your rear driveshaft there is a cable with a Splitter that goes to each parking brake. It has the adjuster nut for the e-brake. Use a ratcheting closed-end wrench to save some elbow grease. Lots of adjustment in mine so I just soaked it with PB Blaster penetrator and turned it until my parking brake was firm and will lock up the rear tires at
reason I dont have a Kroger Card and operate in cash - its none of anyones business who I am or how I travel and conduct my business. My bad if I came across as a bit skeptical of your first post but I tend to have a skeptical view of online forum posts that inquire on ways to disable security features on vehicles. Hell Im even hard pressed to disclose the details of the security features on my jeep.
to say thanks for your pictures and insight into the handbrake lever actuator being two seperate parts. When I got my GC (Mar06) the handbrake didnt even work. Got under it noticed the cable was VERY slack pulled the cable by hand and could hear both rear brakes working. Decided to take the slack up in the cable this made the handbrake work and lock the wheels - great I thought... Test drove the jeep
Yea theres a safety feature that wont let you push the button in and shift gears without the ignition on and your foot on the brake... Its probably the park Interlock cable that needs adjusted check a Haynes or Chilton Manual for procedure.. Quote SHIFTERIGNITION INTERlock On models equipped with an automatic transmission a cable connects the ignition switch with the floor shift lever. The shifter
Quote Originally Posted by vandep32 well i had to replace the axle seals because it was throwing grease everywhere. Thats the reason i am replacing the parking brake hardware. I did the best i could to clean everything. I will use brake cleaner once everything is done. I am also having trouble getting my rotors back on after i installed the brake shoes. I have the adjuster set all the way down and
and sorry.. I guess I read over where you said you had already disconnected the cable under the rear seat... I had the same problem. Took me a good hour or two to get them on even with slack and whatnot. If they are rotors of any reputable brand they will fit. Its just tight. I feel like when our Wjs see 2 brand new parts come together at the same time that are a tight spec they freak out. I will point
the cable stays in the bracket. unclip it from the shift lever at the trans. ensure the lever is fully in park pull the lock clip from the adjustment sleeve screw the adjustment sleeve in or out until you can clip the end of the cable back on the lever without moving the lever to meet it. put the lock clip back into place.
Quote Originally Posted by ratmonkey the cable stays in the bracket. unclip it from the shift lever at the trans. ensure the lever is fully in park pull the lock clip from the adjustment sleeve screw the adjustment sleeve in or out until you can clip the end of the cable back on the lever without moving the lever to meet it. put the lock clip back into place. Thanks Ratmonkey does the cable just snap off or is there a lock i need to release first. I dont want to break the cable end.
shaft with the transmission throttle bracket which had to be removed to replace the shift bracket. Both brackets were severely rusted to their respective shafts. Maybe this is not the OPs problem but it is something that everyone should check. Shouldnt take but 5 minutes with a trouble light. Cheers Quote Originally Posted by duanewhatley Had this happen to me recently. Climb under the jeep
Quote Originally Posted by hckrach Is that piece I showed pictures of supposed to be movable Yesthat is the parking brake lock out when replacing the cables and working on the parking brake itself.It in no way has anything to do with adjusting the parking brake.
Quote Originally Posted by tjkj2002 Yesthat is the parking brake lock out when replacing the cables and working on the parking brake itself.It in no way has anything to do with adjusting the parking brake. So moving that piece forward tightens the cables which is normal so after replacing the shoes and springs I need to move that forward and I should be good to go Then it should stay in place at that
Quote Originally Posted by B2CARPEN Lunchbox lockers just plain work and have no cables wires or air compressors to fail. The negatives are far out-weighed by the positives and makes a HUGE improvement off-road. I honestly would never wheel an open axle rig again since having my Richmond powertrax lock-right in my D30. It is night vs day difference. It honestly is a huge difference off road my XJ on
the scissors is called a parking brake cam and lever. Two separate parts only found at the dealer and about 20 each. So best to try and break them apart and clean them up unless you want to pay 75-80 for 2 wheels. Forget about the e-brake equalizer and needs no adjustment from the factory setting. Believe it was ratmonkey who mentioned that and he was exactly right. The adjustment is all in your self-adjusters
Quote Originally Posted by Uniblurb the scissors is called a parking brake cam and lever. Two separate parts only found at the dealer and about 20 each. So best to try and break them apart and clean them up unless you want to pay 75-80 for 2 wheels. Forget about the e-brake equalizer and needs no adjustment from the factory setting. Believe it was ratmonkey who mentioned that and he was exactly right.
There is also a park lock out that opens with the brake pedal depressed. If that cable is out of adjustment the shifter wont be allowed to go into or out of park.
i have an aussie front and rear and as long as you are aware that it will lock when you give it gas there is no reason not to street it. your tires will wear faster and chirp in parking lots and over paint lines when making right turns in intersections too. if everything is in good condition i would say so. if you will have to re-do brakes find ebrake cables etc. then i would try to talk him down.
Hello As I posted There is no park. Yes the key comes out. I disconnected the cable from the side of trans to push further into pk but it will not lock in. Only a faint ratchet noise when rocking back and forth. Can the assembly be replaced from under the vehicle without pulling trans.Thanks again Cj
Found this online Cutting Brakes - 4Wheel & Off-Road Magazine Finally we want to see some low-buck wheelers using emergency-brake handles as your cutting brakes. If you have drum brakes in the back of your 4x4 then there is probably a cable that engages your parking brake. Simply remove the factory e-brake pedal if it has one and replace it with two brake handles from a car. We found them in many
Car idles nicely in park and will actually drive in reverse. I just bought an 89 cherokee and am in the process of getting her road worthy. First it wouldnt start then after new battery cables plugs etc she started and ran really rough. Then with a changed crank pos sensor she started right up and idles pretty well but is stuttering a little (from pretty good exaust leak and a possible dirty IAC) She
Quote Originally Posted by Dabitz FYI you can indeed adjust the parking brake See attached PDF document. Yeah I read the service manual before I responded. The only adjustment you can make is to lock out the tensioner for cable or shoe replacement which resets the auto adjuster. Otherwise there is no adjustment.
Wow Thanks for the confermation Ill fix that for Christmas. I hate to flame my mechanic just jet the brakes work great. Equal lock up on ice. Right rear would always lock first b4 he worked on them. Could I have a bound or sticking cable since he was so kind as to remove it for me should I lube it up some how b4 re-attaching it He changed my shoes from Metalic to Organic pads. Could that have been the cure for my lock up problems Thanks again
Quote Originally Posted by FullThrottle4x4 Sorry to hijack your thread but since its about e-brakes does anyone know how to tighten it up it wont lock the wheels. 1. first make sure each wheel has its shoes adjusted properly using the adjuster mechanism at the bottom of the brake shoes 2. once step one is certain there is a threaded rod and cross bar where the two e-brake cables terminate at their
Not sure if a 98 is the same as a 96 but if it is (pads for the brakes and shoes for the e-brake) most likely the cam and lever which pushes the shoes out at the top are rustedfroze together. Did your mechanic happen to check this If locked together only 1 shoe will make contact with the inside drum part of the rotor which is not enough to hold back a ZJ. One of the knowledgeable regulars here told
Pop the handle off and use your finger to engage the button. If it still wont budge pull teh selector cover off now and look twoords the front of the shifter assembly. There is a lock and cable for the Brake lock-out that may be kinked or damaged that is not allowing it to open.
Plus 98s had a recall on the shifter detent. Mine has got where I have to give it one more nudge to get fully in park where the key will turn into lock. After all these years I got a letter telling me about the detent.
yes the wiring was a little crazy. the park lock makes sense cuz i can put it in and out of gear with the key off too. at least its not necessary. i did find that when i held it while going a steady speed and let my foot off the pedal it would keep it going the same speed. unless it was just sticking the pedal. thanks oh yeah do you know where to connect it to