Originally Posted by Andrewa The roads were smooter when I took it for a test drive so I didnt really notice. However I did lower the psi to 35 and it does feel a bit better. I probably get used to it too. Lowering the front tires to 33 psi and 32 psi for the rear tires will improve your ride quality. These psis are recommended by lexus and noted on the driver side door frame. Increasing the psi from these psis will improve your mpg but will make the CT ride harder.
First there are always some kind of sales going on and it is a good time to buy a lot of the time The best time to buy is late in the year and get that years model. I.e. get a 2010 in October - December when 2010 models have not been manufactured since early fall. Dealers are very motivated to sell the previous years models (2010 in late 2010) and will sell below MSRP. Also Nissan will have 0% APR
I bought my Pro4x in March 2009 had a 2k rebate I believe and they gave me 1500 more off (which wasnt enough for me). I made them throw in bed extender Rubber mats and OEM Step Bars. Quote Originally Posted by eckemoff ALSO I WOULD NOT BUY A USED PRO4X. First owners likely bought the truck to abuse it and planned on trading it in selling it later My dealer has this old guy (think he is 80 something).
Dans right. While the seal is still new the leak will be a lot smaller than with an old brittle cracking seal. It probably wont be bad enough early on to lubricate your right front suspension which is where the oil will go when the leak is large enough (the fan blows it in that direction). However the odds are pretty high that you will spot an oil puddle after driving when the engine has been running
Well Im going to seal mine because everyone here says to but on the Bakers website under the item description it says not to use any sealant. In capital letters none the less so good luck. Hope I can learn from you and be careful of the way I put mine back together and get it right the first time. But odds are Ill screw something up. Tony- that explains why my suspension is so well oiled on one side on the undercarriage I guess
sounds like you need a KC SE or Nismo id go with the Nismo if its in the budget and you can get the 6 spd in the KC Nismo which is rare. i love my 6 spd. it can be notchy and difficult at times but thats because its basically the trans from the 350z with a longer shifter but after some getting used to its worked great for me. i even changed my knob to reflect this (check my cardomain for pics). i hate
spacers are alright but you only do that when you need a little bit of clearance for bigger tires. i have 3inch spacer for sale if you want to try them out. 60. its quick bolt onto the front suspensions.
sounds good where do you live but dont you have to raise the rear when you raise the front suspension with spacers
If you are wanting one of your mods to be a lift then I suggest checking this out before buying the 04. I have an 04 SC longbed and can not get a lift. At least a suspension lift. Their is a 2 lift available but I am continually told that even the 2 is no longer recommended for the 04. It supposedly has something to do with the angles of the ball joints. The lift will cause them to go bad quickly.
Quote Originally Posted by Jester If you are wanting one of your mods to be a lift then I suggest checking this out before buying the 04. I have an 04 SC longbed and can not get a lift. At least a suspension lift. Their is a 2 lift available but I am continually told that even the 2 is no longer recommended for the 04. It supposedly has something to do with the angles of the ball joints. The lift will
Yeah rear locker (only available in 4 low unless you mod it) as far as the drivetrain is about it...if you include suspension as mechanical then you also get Bilsteins with the PRO-4X. Otherwise within models the only other difference is 3.36 axle ratios for automatic and 3.69 for manuals.
steering shaft with less tortured U-joint angles and those forward-mounted tie rods tend to deliver lateral compliance understeer instead of oversteer. Both attributes are desirable because they add up to more precision and control. Even though the front-steer layout isnt new this year and the bolt-on ball jointsteering arm (green) idea has been on the GS since the beginning our new 2013 lexus
That reason is the new option fitted to our 2013 lexus GS 350 F Sport Dynamic Rear Steering (DRS). You cant put a steering rack like this ahead of the axle because thats where the driveshaft and differential reside. If lexus engineers wanted a four-wheel-steering option then the rack and its tie-rod links had to live out back. The DRS steering rack is electronically actuated by a computer that is tied
All 2013 lexus GS sedans F Sport or otherwise get the same rear brakes consisting of a single-piston sliding caliper and 12.2-inch ventilated rotors. All 2013 lexus GS sedans get same-size front and rear wheels and tires. All except our rear-drive F Sport that is. Its the only one that gets wider rear wheels and tires in the form of 19-by-9-inch wheels and 26535R19 three-season tires that have a combined
Installed the lexus F Sport Sway Bars front and rear Flatter handling more coordinated turns with better feel in steering No change in ride Is it worth it For me it was coming from an Audi 3.2 with sport suspension and quarto. I do not think this upgrade is for everybody especially if the car is not driven in hard turns from time to time I am now considering a change in shocks.
Quote Originally Posted by RICKMS While Im waiting on BMW of America to announce future plans for the 330i335 Sedan and my future car Ive been investigating other vehicles. Today I had the pleasure of test driving a lexus IS 350. It is a totally different vehicle then the 330i. From a pure electronic and comfort perspective the IS is amazing. The seats are a one size fits all (no choice of power leathette
Australian spec. F Sport has different shock absorbers and is fitted with the lexus lateral dampers front and rear.
better quality than Toyota I also believe the reliability of Toyota cannot be beat. I suspect that extends to lexus although Ive never owned one. My SLK has had to be towed twice. Thats the same number of times my Toyotas have been towed in 27 years and over 750000 miles. Both times the Toyotas got me home and were towed from there. The SLK stranded me at work. I drive Toyotas for 10 years and around
You either got the deal of the year or there is something wrong that you havent found yet Could be that the seller didnt have any real idea of the value. Saw the rear wheels too If you are going to buy tires thats an easy fix but make sure the tire shop looks the Left Side and Right Side markings on the inside of the wheels Just out of curiosity are all the tires the same size 27540-17 all around
The other side is this - Tires are more money oil changes are more money uses a lot more fuel front splitter is expensive(parking blocks). Insurance Not worth 30k to me rather spend 15 on the Z06 for power and suspension.
Quote Originally Posted by Sherminator The other side is this - Tires are more money oil changes are more money uses a lot more fuel front splitter is expensive(parking blocks). Insurance Not worth 30k to me rather spend 15 on the Z06 for power and suspension. Why the oil change is more expensive with the ZR1
Originally Posted by 9mmgurn Looks really nice Ive been debating on which spacers I want to get. i have 5mm all around. Looks good on the front but needs more on the back. I was gonna order 15mm rear but now seeing yours Im second guessing myself. Could you please post more of a straight on angle of the front and rear wheels. Thanks with a 5mm spacer you would need to use a spacer with extended studs. i wouldnt recommend using 5mm anyway you will not see the difference at all. is ct lowered or will you be lowering it ill try to get you more pics tomorrow.
Looks great So with 15mm spacers in the front and 25mm in the rear your effective offset is 21 in the front and 11 at the back Im referencing a couple sources that show 36 on the trident wheels. Also any rubbing at full lock Thanks
Originally Posted by Upshift Looks great So with 15mm spacers in the front and 25mm in the rear your effective offset is 21 in the front and 11 at the back Im referencing a couple sources that show 36 on the trident wheels. Also any rubbing at full lock Thanks yup you calculations are correct. the tridents do have a slightly lower offset than the standard wheels. i have no rubbing at full lock.
by danslides Looks good bro. Im probably going to end up doing the same with spacers and coilovers for now but Im going to run no gap or raked and tucked in the front. to get the from to tuck you would need to order the extreme drop bc coils. i believe the are specially made and take longer. with the standard coils like mine i think it will come close but it just depends on how much of a tuck is
I drove both back-to-back when I was car shopping. After a 15 minute drive in each IS-F cons more chassis flex (was amazed at the difference) a stiffer suspension (compared to EDC on soft) a continuously-shifting tranny (in auto) no center rear seat (compared to M3 sedan) A blah passenger dash (no trim to break it up drove me crazy) Very Toyota feel to the interior (Ive never been a fan--and wife drives
Quote Originally Posted by Cebidae I drove both back-to-back when I was car shopping. After a 15 minute drive in each IS-F cons more chassis flex (was amazed at the difference) a stiffer suspension (compared to EDC on soft) a continuously-shifting tranny (in auto) no center rear seat (compared to M3 sedan) A blah passenger dash (no trim to break it up drove me crazy) Very Toyota feel to the interior
Quote Originally Posted by cseaman Well Ive officially had this thing for over two months and I havent wanted to shoot myself yet. I actually rather like it despite the abysmal fuel consumption. I traded in a 2012 Jetta that I bought new and honestly loved but just needed a major change and wanted to get into a more basic vehicle. Its a 2004 CC4AT4WD and I bought it from a local Honda dealer with 102k
cranked your bars or are you lifted How much lift can you get from the crank alone I only want an 1 or so. My truck has a 3 body lift and sits on 33s now. I did adjust the torsion bars a little bit to level out the right but have done zero suspension mods aside from maintenance and repairs. Its a mall crawling 4x2 so I see no need for a suspension lift on it as the only offroading it ever sees is
to be no organization to it so i gave up using it to find things haha. Quote Originally Posted by speedfoos My truck has a 3 body lift and sits on 33s now. I did adjust the torsion bars a little bit to level out the right but have done zero suspension mods aside from maintenance and repairs. Its a mall crawling 4x2 so I see no need for a suspension lift on it as the only offroading it ever sees is
4x4 trucks are always higher than 4x2 its just the way the suspension is. Im not sure why SE would be higher than the XE if there both 2wheel stock
Originally Posted by TSoprano all pressures should be set to 36psi.... I dont have a problem increasing the tire pressures over the recommended but why all the same The rears were set to 1 psi lower than the fronts for a reason no Therefore shouldnt you recommend setting the rears at 35 and the fronts at 36