mercedes benz class b clutch cable
Answers and questions: mercedes benz class b clutch cable
Hi all When I push down the accelaraterand release sometimes it keeps going up in the Revs until I have to switch off and start again. Anyone with advice (apart from the Merc dealers- CC maxed out)
The throttle in these are like fly by wire. When you accelerate the cable actuates a magic box which sits up under the windscreen behind the heaterbox air intake ductwork passengers side engine compartment... (On a RH drive dont know where it is on LHD). On my van 108CDi the after market AC pipework as fitted by the MERCDAD pushed the bowden cable to the point that it was around 30 degrees off straight...
Im sorry if this is a novice question but I know very little about hydraulic clutch
es. I just got this 1991 300E and the friction point on the clutch
is very high up almost at the end of the arc as opposed to close to the floor. If im not mistaken you cant really adjust a hydraulic clutch
like you would a cable
so im trying to figure out if this is a problem with the pressure plate or possibly
Please reply with anything Im missing. Especially in the engine removereplace area. The more eyes I put on the plans teh better chance I have of it going smoothly. Thanks -Dave G. PREP ENGINE Lash valves Replace oil pan Rebuildreplace vac pump Port head & manifolds Replace head gasket New belts and hoses Mount new WP pulley & fan Heat shield above turbo Water temp adapter bushing Plug gauge ports Clean
My A170cdi lost engine power on a busy highway in England when I managed to pull over the gear indicator was showing F guessing that it was computer failure I restarted the car and all was well. br br mercedes
have run diagnostic tests and say that the computer was showing a cured fault and therefore nothing was wrong with the car I was told that if it reoccured to bring the car back to the dealer.
Hi lot have been spoke on automatic but for me something not clear yet. My car at R is having some clutch problems. It seems like in a manual you try to release clutch pedal too fast. I see no F indicator. So as far as I read clutch in automatics are similar to motorcycles wet disks but in this case I think for each gear is that true I also understood that the copper pistons inside the automatic gearbox
Well I bought my mom a 1998 E320 and I knew this car needed fixing but now by the time I finish fixing one thing I find another thing wrong. I held off on posting for a long time and search has been my only friend here since now. So I come to you now needing some feedback. Heres my list of problems. 1.) First the brake pedal goes to the floor before and after I replaced the front rotors and pads so
If I remember correctly a falling brake pedal with constant pressure on the pedal can only be either a worn master cylinder (an internal leak) or an external leak somewhere in the system. If youre not losing brake fluid then its the master cylinder. If its a leak or bad master cylinder dont waste time bleeding the brakes until the leak is fixed or the master cylinder is replaced. It should be a simple
Quote Originally Posted by n42w88 If I remember correctly a falling brake pedal with constant pressure on the pedal can only be either a worn master cylinder (an internal leak) or an external leak somewhere in the system. If youre not losing brake fluid then its the master cylinder. If its a leak or bad master cylinder dont waste time bleeding the brakes until the leak is fixed or the master cylinder
Im getting a clicking sound that can be heard best at idle inside the cockpit with the roof up. I thought it was a pulley bearing but Ive changed out all I could on the front of the engine--supercharger idler tensioner and AC. My car has 80k miles so Im glad I did it for preventative maintenance but the clicking is still there and driving me crazy. Its most noticeable at idle with the car in neutral.
My friend has a W210 with 722.6 gearbox. We are debating whether we should put on the neutral while stopping on the traffic light instead of keeping in D. Someone said switching between N and D fequently causes more problem on the gearbox while another saying that the gearbox will do more harm keeping in D while forcing the car in idle. Dont know whos right.
Quote Originally Posted by Kajtek1 Now ask me how I drove across the city when the clutch hydraulic fluid leaked out. The same way I drove a 1983 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe to the nearest dealer when an inch-long clutch coupling cable broke right at the side of the transmission speed-matching shifting letting the engine die at stop lights starting off in first and going on. I put the new cable in right there in the dealers parking lot since it snapped in place without any tools.
I have a 1996 V230 and yesterday the transmission warning light came on. The vehicle will start but only continue to turn over whilst my foot is on the accelerator. Does anyone know what may be wrong
Quote Originally Posted by Gerone I sent it to CMC and using the Star diagnostics came out P2019 P2010 P2028 P2013 which unfortunately arent in Sarges list of fault codes. I only gathered the meaning of P2013 from the dealer which meant Output Speed Implausible. There were other info in the report given to me which are AGN - Actual Valve 08 - Slip speed of torque converter clutch O. RPM Engine at Idling
Long story short I got an W168 A160 which was ACS but was then fitted with clutch
pedal and pump. All was OK for a short period of time and the all time favorite F started coming again. I drove it for some time like this until I got it to a Star equiped friend to clear and re-read the codes after some driving. So here are the new codes that came up ECM - Engine control monolith P0121-022 M166 (Throttle
Am i right in thinking that if i bought a manual vito van i could transfer all the manual conversion into my 1999 auto v220.If so is there a specific model that i need to get.
One thing (amoung many) to sort out is the pedals and cables BEFORE you put the engine and box back in.....the clutch is fluid and the pipework is attached to the firewall...i had a leak in the pipe (no clutch) and found it impossible to remove the pipework without bending it totally out of shape theres no room to extract it easily....i had to get a stainless flexi made to replace it....all much easier if there was no engine in the way....
Just a small update.Ive fitted the clutch pedal and gear change.damn nightmare getting the clutch pipes fitted with the engine in place.clutch and flywheel fitted.I also have the gearbox on I didnt change the subframe yet though.Ive still got to connect the gear cables and clutch pipes to the box.I am nearly at the stage where I need to find out what writing needs to be done.
Hi chaps can someone shed some light on an issue with my Vito. My Vito is a 54 plate 111CDI that only has 36000 miles. When I start the van from cold I am unable to select any gear especially reverse this has become worse now the weather has been below zero. I have to start the van from cold in gear but once moving I can select gears ok however if I stop before the van has warmed up and select neutral
one other thing i should have mentioned about Mrclutch is that they operate an aftersale clutch inspection service after they have fitted your clutch they hand you a card which has to be filled in and stamped on 4 different occasions at different mileage intervals within the first 12 months they apparantly inspect your clutch (god only knows how) and check that everything is adjusted correctly (again
its been a rotten week and I no longer trust my judgment.... I need your expertise... PLEASE background.... the wife is agoraphobic and on holiday with the grand-sprogs... a pretty tense time you can imagine. on sunday on blackpool prom early enough to be empty (agoraphobia isnt about open spaces... its about crowds) her crutch slipped on loose sand and she went over... and broke her neck.. literally.....
Hello to you all i was hoping any of you could help me out with a little question. 1 My gaz pedal has about a whole inch of loose play at the very top before anything happens when depressing it. I got in a BMW last night (E30) and the gaz pedal in that one had absolutely no loose play. RPMs go up as soon as you make contact with the pedal. This leads me to beleive that the 190 should also be like that.
Hey Ive bought a 97 slk 230 kompressor Beutifull car looks great runs fine. Its an automatic and if I put the car in Reverse Or Drive the car automaticly starts rolling.. so the clutch
wont work good enough.. The gear work fine it shift great.. no strange noises or some What could be the problem is the clutch
computer controlled (software) is the clutch
damaged is there not enough oil is there some adjustments posible in cable
s Please Help me out
Hi all I have just fitted a re-conditioned gearbox new DMF new clutch
to my 115 CDI vito 2004 all the noises have gone and it drives well but it™s now hard to engage second and reverse gear can any adjustment be made on the cable
s Or do you know of any fixes I know the gearbox is good as its had all new parts so it must be the cable
s or gear stick selector part if I remove the gear gator I can see
Converting my 94 C220 with 249 000 miles from Auto to 5 Manual. Here is what I have done and found out so far 1.A manual transmission out of a 190E or 190D will fit. It can be the 5 speed 717.411 or the close ratio 5speed getrag with dog leg first gear. 2. Pedal assembly from the 190E 190D will fit with small modifications in order to connect the top bolt on the bracket. 3. The Shifter from 190E190D
comparing the flexplate to the flywheel. I marked it and moved the timing plates to the flywheel. Epoxied them for testing. Got the car running but it was always scraping in to something and woudnt start easy. Tried it a few times and gave up and ordered the flywheel from germany. Removed the center console and automatic shifter. Installed the manual shifter and ran a cable from the reverse light switch
shhhhhh Im secretly hoping that its not my driveshaft thats shuddering the car rather the transmission so I could do the same thing to my car. So In the end you needed a Manual Transmission Drive shaft - Half shaft rear of the c220 and Half shaft Front off a 190E Auto New clutch Pack A dual mass Flywheel Pedal Set Shifter with linkage Slave Cylinder Rebuilt and a Line from the Power Steering Pump to
Hi I need some help and guidance in picking the NON-MB EXTENDED Warranty from EFG Companies ( EFG Companies ). Anybody knows this company They are providing coverage for all EXCEPT standard industry Exclusions Anybody heard of Century Warranty Services . this is from Costco it is a exclusionary warranty policies ( 5000 for 48M48K More Miles w250 deductible) exclusionary List BRAKE LININGS BRAKE DRUMS
I know Im not supposed to post this here but Im at a loss at an issue with my Z. Mr. Moderator delete this if you feel it doesnt belong here - but please I really need help and I feel theres enough knowledge here to help - even though our cars trucks arent manual trannies. Introduction My daily driver is a 89 Nissan 300ZX Turbo with about 240K. Several years ago (and I believe that was under 100K)
Let me start out by saying I am no expert in this. But in reading your post before coming to you mentioning the throwout bearing I was thinking the same thing. Does the Z have the old style clutch cable set-up Just before the throwout bearing on my 911 gave out I had a metallic sound that disappeared when the clutch was depressed. Snapped my clutch fork as well when the bearing gave way.
Hello all I have a vito 108cdi thats been having problems with gear changing especially when cold 2nd gear is a killer until engine warms up.I have read all the posts of similar problems gerabox magic.. etc. and its not that bit might be the cable
s... but the counter arm weight is knackered just flopping about. so had to by a new one from merc as mine was missing plastic rectangle and bushes were cracked
Yes it worked still not 100% smooth but I would say at least 80% better. Maybe a bit of extra greese inside the gear knob gaiter end and it might improve also adjusted the gear linkage pretty much made the yellow cable that does forward and backwards movement as short as possible under the ashtray. That helps too if its too long 3rd gear kept jumping out and didnt feel like it was going in properly.
Quote Originally Posted by Custom Chris Simon I have just done exactly the same to mine about an hour ago I also took the cylinder shaped bush out and put some JB metal weld around it for a tighter fit. The results are fan-fecking-tastic When I table Kied mine I did a row each side then went and did another row over each side again to close the gap a tad more. Leathered it with grease and its... its
My heater control knob seems to have no resistant & moves very freely. Consequently when you move it slightly it just blows hot air. When you turn it back to cold it sometimes continues to blow hot. My question is there a cable
at the back of the control which may have come loose or is it electronic I suspect the Heater control is part of the whole unit of switches so realise I will have to take centre dash out to get to it. Thanks.
Water in diesel lamp is a warning that the water filter on the fuel filter is full. Yes correct about the booster heater. You will hear it come on when its pressed. A bit of a ticking followed by the sound of a small jety engine Its an eberspacher d5wz diesel powered booster heater. Only works when the ignition is running anf there is more than 14 a tank of fuel (to stop you running the tank dry with
hi im pretty new here so i dont know if im posting in the right place i got a problem with the box wont go into 3rd or 4th. use to slip between these gears now they are gone changed oil and filter still same reverse gear is like its jammed between park and reverse press gas down and jerks back.. changed the box with a 2nd hand one off ebay.. its like the gearing is all wrong changes too early then
thanks guys for the help the 36 box is a 722.328 its not quite the same gearing as the 500E. the vacuume line i pulled was green. is it possible that i runned the clutchs becuase of the wrong gear change settings or may be wrong toruqe convertor problem is i bought a C36 AMG gearbox off ebay picked it up close to where i live. guy seems genuine he told me he took it out of this wrecked car w202. i
Hi all Ive read the stickies and searched through the forum taking notes but I know theres no replacement for experience. So any and all opinions are welcome. Im shopping for a E430 (W210) and am wondering what things I should be looking for. Im aware of the rust & harmonic balancer issues. Are any years better than others Were most of the issues resolved by the 2002 model year Are there any options
When looking at cars & their service records are there some things that I should check for being changed at different mileage or age intervals From the A & B service manual I downloaded I know Coolant is every 3 years Brake Fluid every 2 years Oil & Oil Filtergasket every 10k miles spark plugs every 100k miles & Fuel Filter 60k miles or 4 years. How long do X last Which will probably go bad with mileage
Hello everybody I have a160 semi-autopetrol.My car was running fine but one day while driving my car went to safe mode (f display on dashboard) then i stopped the carturned the engine off and start again.The car came to normal.This happens very often like once a mth or sth like that.sometime when i apply the brake to slow down the f display comes up and again if i turn off the engine n restart it goes
i took pics but havent got them uploaded yet basically there are 2 white and black boxes about 1.5 across mounted under the shift cable ends stand in front of the car look down on the right hand side and you will see the shifter cables coming to the top of the gearbox. between them is the reversing light switch and under the plastic arms on the end of the cables away from the switch are the 2 boxes
Whilst driving the other day I turned the heater down to cold but after a while when the thing should have been kicking out cooler air it was still very warm I am away now working at the mo so can not get to look. I was wondering if anyone else has had this trouble any ideas on what it will be will I need to get under the bonnet to sort this out Any help would be great ..............................please
Control cable Theres a blue cable that runs from the heater controls to the valve that is above the clutch pedal you will need to remove center dash panel and the heater controls and lie on the floor to see the bit that connects to the valve. Sometimes the cable bends at the end or becomes disconnected. Might be an air lock Might also be the valve broken they are not very strong.
I have recently had a new clutch
fitted to my 1997 V230 Ambient. When the car went in the gearbox was working fine ( for a V class
) apart from a reluctance to go into reverse ( especially on cold mornings ) Since the new clutch
has been fitted it is now impossible to even find reverse gear let alone get it in to reverse. The same problem applies to 2nd and 4th gears. We have taken the car back but
sounds like you need a reverse selector cradle its the bit on top of the gearbox that has 2 heavy cables attached to it (the gear lever cables) dont mess around - change it .... 2 bolts hold it down and the cables push on off... about 23 from merc for the part and 10 mins to change. Im surprised the clutch guy didnt fit a new one --- ask him to do it if you pay for ( supply ) the part.
I am getting a 79 230G. Where can I find a replacement engine for my 79 230G How much does it cost Where can I get an AC retrofit system for my G
For the swap from 230G to OM617A (5cyl 3 liter all iron turbodiesel) At the least youll need engine support arms and motor mounts from a 300GD. Then youll need an oil cooler and lines from a 300GD. A radiator from a 280GE works well too (need more cooling than 300GD rad gives). I THINK you can use your existing transmission and bell housing but not certain 4x4 rancher would know better as hes seen
Ok so Im trying to fix my fan I purchase a fan clutch
but its a metal piece that I dont know where it goes should I exchange it for just a fan assembly How does the fan clutch
look like anyways Thanks in advance
ok... so it wasnt the clutch its the temp switch thats bad as I took the connector off and jumped the connector to the fan which works... so my question is does the engine fan need to be running at engine speed in idle right now i left the cable connected to the switch which has the fan on at all times is this good or bad
Now dont get all excited this is the service manual on-line httpwww.startekinfo.comStarTeko...tedDocId12253 What it is is the Steve Nervig index to the 126 service manual (at this point just the gen 2 V8 - but I will get around to the others however the group numbers are generally the same). You can download the index for your CDs from here . The aim of this index is to allow YOU to SEARCH the archives
41 - Propeller Shaft Maintenance Jobs &82264152 - Inspecting drive shaft flexible coupling Misc &822641-050 - Remove and replace drive shaft &822641-100 - Remove and replace center bearing &822641-200 - Remove and replace centering sleeve 42 - Brake - Hydraulical and Mechanical System Maintenance Jobs &82264210 - Checking brake fluid level &82264250 - Inspecting brake lines for damage &82264251 - Checking
Is the clutch
fan actuated by the 100 degree fan switch on the engine Im trying to test the clutch
fan and am only getting response from the aux fan. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using AutoGuide.Com Free App
The third sensor and connector do not look like the others posted here. Is the connector with the larger black connector the one If so how does the cable come off I hope to make sure the clutch fan works before I take on a 7000 mile trip.
Quote Originally Posted by Darryl Elkins The third sensor and connector do not look like the others posted here. Is the connector with the larger black connector the one If so how does the cable come off I hope to make sure the clutch fan works before I take on a 7000 mile trip. The third one in your case is the computer control. Leave it alone.
Ive searched and read many posts on the r170w202eaton m62 supercharger not only on here but on the internet... there was even a post on benz
world on how to replace the bearing... I have a 99 w202 but same engine as the slk230 - the m111.975 - now on to my question I bought a brand new clutch
assembly for the kompressor and want to replace it I just serviced all of the tensioners pulleys and belts and
Dandywarhol you are awesome Instead of running a massively long cable to the battery (which is in the trunk) Could I instead use the fuse box or perhaps the cig lighter with something like this httpwww.amazon.com12V-Cigarette-Lighter-Power-AdapterdpB005HWTGQU I assume that I will also need to employ the 12v current when installing and torquing the new clutch...
Im trying to remove the cluster but cant seem to make enough room to put my hand behind so I can un-screw the speedo cable
conector. Ive tried from the left & the right vents & even from the bottom. Thanks Spiros (Hyprr 1)
mile. -1987 GSXR 750RR Coca Cola Edition limited only 150 built polished everything dry clutch 150hp. -1981 Corvette -1979 Trans Am -198419851987 190E -1987 16 valve 190E -1990 Eagle Talon -1989 300CE -1987 260E -1986 Yamaha Virago 1000cc plus alot more regular vehicles... Things changed though when I got married. Now theres mortgage and bills (reality). Anyways LIFE IS A BITCH. p.s. this mercedes
so if its really cold in the am like 0C cold my clutch
pedal is slow to return. everything works fine just it comes up like something is gummygooey. thoughts
is the clutch on this beast cable operated ive never bothered to investigate.
I have a 2002 G500. Yesterday I started noticing my sunroof not functioning properly. It was going real slow opening and retracting. Today its not working at all. I can manually (with my hands) open it and shut it. However I cannot shut it all the way the back will not come up all the way. The motor is still running Ive removed the cover on the rear drivers side and see both wheels spinning. I need
Quote Originally Posted by therron4ou Thank you for the reply However the motor is working just fine. I believe the cable is the problem. So I really need a way to close it without using the motor or a way to replace the cable. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Did you try closing it manually as shown in the PDF posted above Is it possible that the motor clutch is slipping
Hi everyone I only passed my test a few days ago so Im a brand new driving also Im new to the forum and to driving a Merc. Ive just bought a 1996 mercedes
C200 and it was dropped off for me today. My problem is I have never had to start a car with no handbrake Ive driven 3 different makes and models of cars whilst learning to drive and never had a problem. I know that its got the extra foot brake which
[QUOTEBella Cullen3527443]Hi there Its a manual transmission. Ive figured out how to take the foothandbrake section of it off. Someone told me to go into neutral take the parking brake off go into first gear find biting point then pull the hand lever off and then you can set off. Holding it at the grab point with the brake on will just wear out your clutch. The car doesnt appear to rev at all normally
Hi I got a 98 ML320 and I have following problems. problem 1 SOmetimes when I turn the key the starter does not crank sometimes it does. problem 2 After driving a while BRAKE light comes on on the instrument cluster and transmission gets stuck in second gear. It feels like its a fail safe mechanism to prevent you from going fast. What causes BRAKE light to come on and why does it affect the transmission
Quote Originally Posted by 43sqd Please update your profile in USER CP to include the year and model of your truck. Also tell us where you live. It appears that you have recently bought this truck and with it you have also bought the provious owners problems. Everyone understands that you need help but you were given specific instructions to check the starting problem but you only said that you cleaned
Okay so I need to replace the AC controller in my 1998 ML320. Is it possible to replace it with the new-style controller off of say the 2004 or so ML The digital controller or will the way it handles the blend-motor be a road-block Thanks Guys JC7
Quote Originally Posted by JanitorC7 yepp thats what I figured. Guess I was holding out some strange hope that the 2002s some how worked with a motor that tightened the cables. Seemed like a long-shot but why not eh Looks like I will just be buying the old one its lost its ability to engage the clutch on my compressor There are other reasons why the clutch will not engage. Why have you decided on the controller
I need to replace the transmission in my 1998 C230. It has a 722.600 in it. I have found a cheap 722.605 from an SLK230. What is the difference of these transmissions Can i use the 722.605 I know the mexican 1997-1998 C230 used the 722.605.
There are many flavors of this transmission. The biggest difference is the gear ratios. Then good thing is there are two flavors. Small NAG for V6 (4 cyl) applications and Large NAG for V8 applications. There are different combinations of clutches hence all the revisions. The revision numbers xxx (722.XXX) also include the tcu programming. The transmission you have should work just fine. The electrical
Ive been reading through the threads on the c230 coupe panoramic roof problems but I havent come across any that describe my particular issue. 1.) My roller blind has somehow detached from its support track or chain that moves it back and forth. That trackchain still works and will push the blind open but it will not pull it closed again. Ive made a short video of the problem to better illustrate.
Quote Originally Posted by C2ooCoupe Hi i think i may have a similar problem. Just wondering if you resolved yours One of the plastic bits that holds the rear shade in the track broke so the one side sags. I pulled the shade out of the other sides plastic bit that isnt broken to see how i could replace it. Did you have to replace these pieces Did you have to remove the headlining to replace these I
Hi all Just bought an 2005 vito and sometimes it will select 5th perfect and drive fine and other times you think it is selected unto you release the cluch and it is not in gear and grinds a little there is about 150000miles on it do you think this is the gearbox or maybe just the gear oil needing changed i will guess it will never have been done Any help would be great
Ive just got a 639 Vito replaced my 638 and I am now wondering why Its a 115 2004 dualiner. It occasionally pops out of first (gearstick doesnt got far enough forward then it pops out). I seem to of solved this by selecting second gear first then first gear. Its not popped out using this method this way for a few weeks.. Its also slightly crunchy engaging second gear when cold gets better when warm.
I just bought my first Van Vito. Its a 2007reg 111CDI. When I change gears there is a noisy (from the exterior) mechanical clinking clanking sound. Its not gears grating Its more like cable
s and metal being knocked about. Is this normal Gear selection works fine. Just a bit ing noisy
I just heard from the garage. It is as you suggested the linkage needed some greasing. They have also changed the gearbox oil for good measure. Im not sure I understand it right so correct me if I am wrong. The clanking noise was from a loose cable being pulled taut by the counter weight. When I press the clutch the gear linkage goes loose then the counter weight kicks in a bit late due to the lack
Well not really. I cant claim any responsibility at all for this fine piece of craftsmanship. But I thought Id share the fact that the TopTent arrived from South Africa today. Well it arrived in Denver yesterday but I had to do some customs paperwork and arrange for a trailer to haul it home so I just now have it here safe in my garage. Ill get it on the truck this weekend for some action shots. But to get an idea here it is closed up -Dave G.
Make sure the motor is a through-shaft design or better yet an offset gear reduction design with over-running clutch so that the hex shaft is still available for use when needed. Just after I got the top-tent a buddy of mine returned from a week-long jaunt with his pickup-bed camper. Its the kind with a roof that lowers a bit and the roof is raised by an electric motor. He said he pulled into camp
Can anyone tell me what the problem is when i change gear into 2nd on my vito 2008 109 CDI Is it a gear linkage problem thanks
Hello Malcolm Thank for your help till now. I finally found and replaced the cage unit and the plastic slide part. However the van doesnt have much improvement for the reverse gear - the selection of the gears is much better now but almost every time when reverse gear is selected when I release the clutch a grrrr sound appears and it didnt work. I have to switch to neutral then try 3-4 times before
After wrapping up some tasks in the yard yesterday I decided to take the UNIMOG out for a trip into the park near where we live. Instead of firing up the engine all I heard was the tick tick tick of a bad starter I check the batteries and tired again same results. I then secured the 15 ft. cable
to the back of the 280 GE and to the rear of the Unimog. I pulled it down the driveway about 50 feet and
Hello all. My woes continue. My van keeps going into limp mode but no light on the dashboard. This has started since I had the clutch
done and I seem to be down on my MPG as well. Garage said the plastic MAF connector was broken and missing when they went to unplug it and the cable
s only have the push on ends on. So like the morons they have turned out to be they pulled all the wires off without writing
sorry guys clutch
pedal sticking to floor but when pedal has stuck to floor the clutch
is still engaged very difficult to explain is there a cable
or somthing sticking that i can get to to oil or some thing why at christmas why martin