mercedes benz class b clutch cable
Answers and questions: mercedes benz class b clutch cable
Hi All Based on the feedback i got from some of the members i have created a parts list (listed by mercedes
model) to make it easier for everyone. I have also created a sub album (by mercedes
model) within my photobucket link. If theres a part that you need please let me know. Thanks Parts pictures by cynewan - Photobucket Parts list R107 Condition Description Part Number New OEM Front Spoiler 1077900488
89 560SL 134K Regardless of how I accelerate easy or WOT transmission will not shift to 3rd or 4th until I let off of the throttle quite a bit. I can ease up to any RPM and hold steady - no shift until I let off. I can accelerate hard and ease up - still no shift. Only shifts when I completely back off the throttle. Is this a modulator symptom Transmission has been serviced recently and fluid level is fine.
Quote Originally Posted by roncallo Vacuum modulator or throttle cable adjustment. Possibly a governor. Good news is all thre are servicable without dropping the trans. This is mostly true but occassionally there are tasks like getting to the B2 piston that require a jack and dropping the trans off the mount and letting the transmission sag to get some clearance. Same procedure is used for replacing
Quote Originally Posted by benzHacker This is mostly true but occassionally there are tasks like getting to the B2 piston that require a jack and dropping the trans off the mount and letting the transmission sag to get some clearance. Same procedure is used for replacing the neutral safety switch and it makes it a lot easier to replace the shifter cable and modulator valve. Mostly you want to make
Hi all I drive a mercedes
190e 2.6 1989 model i think its a sport line as its got all the works and a full cozzy kit. The problem that I have is that the sunroof has stopped working. When you push the sunroof button backward and forwards up and down there is no movement but you can hear the motor going. Also you can open it manually from the boot. Can any one help me as its summer time now. Cheers[(]
If you can wind it all the way open and closed again from the boot then the cable is OK. It sounds like the cable needs some lubricating. If you open the roof about half way you can pull the lining down. It his held up by four plastic pressure clips along the front. Pull them down and then slide the lining out forwards. Spray some lubricant on the inner cable or grease it then wind it back and forward
My wifes faithful 190E is sucking the life out of the battery. New 800 CCA battery dead in less than two hours. Here are the symptoms 1. After the battery is freshly charged the static draw (ECM Memory is .001 amp) 2. Wife drives the car to the local store (5 minute drive time) 30 minutes later the car will not start without a jump. 3. I have pulled each fuse to see if there is a high amp draw and
Radio on Voltage 13.3 resting during mystery load Voltage 9.7 and dropping 20 plus amp draw (my meter red lines a 20 amps) There are two relays in the back of the fuse box. One is five pin and the other is six pin. The fuse box cover says they control everything from cooling fans to power windows. I have discovered that one of the pins one the first relay was blued from heat. Further reading on benz-World
Hi guys I just got a 1983 300D turbo for 500. Odometer shows 301500 miles and is working. The car had been sitting for 3 years. It was smoking more at first but then it cleared up on my way home since I put some fresh fuel in it. I will post a video as soon as I get a chance with my blow by and stuff (it seems normal to me). It seems to have good power (I only ran it from where I bought it to home
Quote Originally Posted by Tedd300DT Here is my latest update 1. I put new oil filter. 2. I pressure washed the engine although some of you guys said that It might damage something - now after I did it - I am pretty sure there is no way something can be damaged when pressure washing it. It is nice and clean now. I will post pictures. 3. I did the valve adjustment - They were ALL tight Only 2 exhaust
Hey guys when I got back from vacation about 3 months ago by car would hesitate to shift up to 4th gear. Ive had my baby for almost 3 years and have had NO transmission problems. It would hesitate in the way that after 3rd gear the revs would rise and it would feel as if Im not in gear at all and THEN fall into 4th gear. After driving it for a couple more weeks the 4th gear would not catch at all.
at the time. Id make the same decision if I had to do it again. Turns out my limit is rebuilding an automatic transmission how about that. On the west coast you should contact Sun Valley. Theyre reasonable on the cost and will install it cheaply. The shop I used is in NJ its called Trans Specialties. Either shop should do this including install for under 2K. Both of these shops do a lot of mercedes
Just blowing smoke.... The reported problem is that 4th gear isnt engaging and the transmission is going into neutral instead. This means the K2 clutch isnt engaged. If it was a bowden cable or modulator there would be other symptoms. A K2 accumulator problem might account for his earlier flaring symptom and is an easy thing to check but even a broken accumulator spring would be an unlikely reason
As much as I hate to do this unforseen circumstances have me considering the sale of my 1992 190e 2.3. If you take the time to read on you will realize what a rare car this is for New England primarily due to its pristine condition lack of rust and its rare manual transmission. Oh yes did I mention I purchased this less than two months ago from the original owners son who meticulously maintained this
I am looking for a great extended warranty for my CLK 55 AMG. Its a 2001 w only 28k. Does anyone know of a great company to call for this that has the warranty themselves Any detailed info would be great Thanks in advanced. Congrats to the guys in the car show Great looking rides GO Va way to represent.
ya id like to purchase extended warranty on the 430.....dont know where to look. stupid dealer guy doesnt return my calls [(] what about AAA ------------------------------------ Platinum Coverage Plan The Platinum coverage plan is available for all vehicles and provides coverage for Emergency Repair If you experience a problem after hours and our Claims Service is closed you may authorize and be reimbursed
Hi guys I have created a new post as I now have a new issue from my initial problem. Two days ago I floored the gas pedal and accelerated through a tunnel then as I started to slow I felt my car was lumpy like miss firing the power was down but I got home. I drove the car the next day and it still was miss firing. When I started to look into the fault I found it to be a faulty ignition coil I replaced
Quote Originally Posted by twins ah..... can you see the clutch wheel Ive never noticed but I will have a look. I thought it was inside the compressor..... How do you know the valve stays open If you disconnect the tube to check the position of the valve you cant really be sure..... If there is an experiment I can perform to help sort it out feel free to ask I may be wrong but I thought the clutch
Quote Originally Posted by A1EK Interestingly if I disconnect the cable to the supercharger the clutch disengages so its the electro magnet that seems to be staying on all the time. Now that doesnt make sense..... The rest position is clutch off. If by plugging it works the electromagnet is WORKING FOR SURE. Either the order (delivered through the cable) to the electromagnet is wrong or something within
If a 190E 84 - 86 has a 2.3L 4sp and the throwout bearing spins a gouge into the tranny snout (input shaft bearing support ) and ( throwout support) does a wise merc owner always upgrade to a 5 speed my benz
is a euro sold here in 85. if memory serves the trans case and throwout support are case molded the same item. am i wrong pricing a used 4 sp. they are telling me inspect case for id 717.411
is longer so to upgrade to that you need a different propshaft and cross member as well as a little extra length on the speedometer cable. Im just in the process of upgrading mine (amongst other things) The following 4 speeds were factory fitted to the 201.024 chassis 716.212 716.216 718.217 I doubt if you can tell the difference between these gearboxes from the outside The ID number on all mercedes
Seems the SL type antenna is a favorite... but with por reception... Does anyone know anything about the european bumper antenna...installation effort... Part and cost If it can be done then maybe we can do a group buy...
After installation of the free speech mechanism with audio muting of the Becker Traffic pro only one point remained unclear the antenna After I did not want to have outwardly however visible antenna there were still three alternatives Glass sticking antenna into the outside mirror (workstation enough should be available) the deer man bumper antenna or the original DC Stossfaengerantenne here much
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I need some advice from you guys... I drive a SLK 32 AMG 2002 of which the supercharger pulleyclutch
has broken a little plate which forms part of the assembly. It damaged the intercooler pipe and made a nasty dent in the bonnet. Replacing the pulleyclutch
from mercedes benz
South Africa is freaky expensive and absolutely
Now this is the kind of advice I was hoping for Firstly I am not changing the crank pulley so all the other pulleys should still be turning at exactly the same revs. Only the supercharger pulley is smaller therefore only the supercharger will be spinning faster which is what I want. I don™t have a choice regarding which pulley I want to change. My supercharger pulleyclutch is broken and must be replaced
I have to replace the water pump on my 1994 E320 and have done many searches here to see if someone put out a step by step guide on what needs to be taken off first. I know that it is in the repair manual but I do not have time to order it due to the fact that I need this car to go to work. So anyone that can point me in the right direction of either a posting or a website I would greatly appreciate it.
38&8221 OD vinyl hose will work might need to cut a small slit to get it to fit the drain outlet). Open the drain plug slowly and gently. Drain the engine block from the bolt which is located on the left bottom side of the engine near the exhaust pipe. This is not absolutely necessary since most of the block will drain when you pull the pump off.....although a bit messy. REFIT Use a 5050 mix of mercedes
i know this is little bit of topic here but i will in a few weeks have three V12 bi-turbo engines with 5 speed auto from 2004 in my garage and the engines are fully complete with everything nothing is missing. get back with more info.....think i would put one in my 107 after all......
John thats good info about the shift delay but that can be done relatively easily on the SM4. The problem I can see is that IF the factory use 2x 6 cyl ECUs (much like m120 used 2xm104 units) then the setup is complicated. Also the CANbus is going to be a problem for a whole host of other issues like instrumentation abs yaw control etc - which are all tied into the harness. probably going to need a
I am having some overheating issues with my 1984 190e 2.3. During normal driving conditions my temp is at 80 degrees C. When i am stopped the engine temp begins to rise almost to 120C. I have done some searching and found some possible culprits. 1.) Thermostat-I am not sure if this is the culprit bc I have an all aluminum thermostat housing. If i am not mistaken..wasnt it plastic If so then the thermostat
Heres a recap of what we might know about your situation. 1) The thermostat probably wasnt an issue. Thermostats can be tested in a pot of hot water with a kitchen thermometer monitoring the temp and seeing when the device opens. 2) Even with a working thermostat when the car is stopped if the radiator cant dump enough heat then the aux fan needs to help out otherwise the coolant temp will continue
I need to replace the water pump on my 1995 e320 wagon. I would like to do it myself. Can anyone tell me if its a big job or what it entails. Im reasonably mechanical. Thanks
38Ã‚ OD vinyl hose will work might need to cut a small slit to get it to fit the drain outlet). Open the drain plug slowly and gently. Drain the engine block from the bolt which is located on the left bottom side of the engine near the exhaust pipe. This is not absolutely necessary since most of the block will drain when you pull the pump off.....although a bit messy. REFIT Use a 5050 mix of mercedes
So just drove back to L.A. yesterday and noticed that when I accelerated slowly from a light there was a gappause when shifting from 2nd to 3rd....If I was on the gas a bit it wouldnt happen.....no previos issues no slipping and always had tranny serviced....180k. I have 3 different friends around the country who are mercedes
mechanics so i called em all to ask advice. 1st one said to adjust the modulator
Hello all I have never owned a mercedes
before always been a BMW guy (specifically V8V12 BMWs preferablly with manual gearbox). Regardless I am currently looking at a cheap 400E as a DD. Car seems pretty solid aside from a few niggling problems. Looking for input I dont mind little weekend projects but I really dont want this to end up as a project car. Car has 150k miles engine pulls extremely hard
too like play in the throttle pedal. I tried adjusting the cable at the rear of the engine but that didnt help at all. The second mechanical part also didnt have any play. Whats the deal with that Does this thing have an electric TB The car is EXTREMELY cheap (1200)..I am tempted to buy as I love projects but I dont want to get over my head especially as I dont know much about this model or mercedes
First sorry for my bad English. Im from Uruguay (we re spanish speakers). Last month I bought a MB 300TD 91 (124 - automatic). First thing I think to do is renew all fluids and filters change bad hoses stop leaks etc. After that brakes suspension etc. My problem with reverse mode begins after a ATF and filter change. This is my first MB and I have no idea what fluids it carries (brand type). At Service
along with a new pressure control cable and a new transmission mount. This is the proper and only way to rebuild a MB transmission and make it last. Finally since the transmission is out of the car make sure to have the engine rear main seal replaced. This is the best time to get to it. I would stick with genuine MB parts for this expensive job. I wouldnt trust any USA transmission parts in a mercedes.
Hi The rear height adjustment (rear tilt) for my drivers seat is binding on the console side... it also looks like the black plastic trim under the seat on the same side has worked loose... the pinion seems to be engaging on the door side cause the cushion flexes (scary)... any idea what might be wrong Pinion gear binding on one side Is there only 1 motor that controls this axis Tks
torx screws holding a plate onto the particular gearbox in question. If I remove the torx screws will I get access to the gears in the box Are they mostly nylon gears or are there metal drive gears in there Brass Steel 5. Is there some sort of clutch mechanism that disengages with load that I should be looking at Its seems possible although maybe a little overkill in this application. Still with mercedes
The following list of components and their life expectancy is based upon consumer report articles and the experience of mechanics at A Street Automotive in Eugene Oregon. It is a guideline only and while it is not inclusive to mercedes
it is applicable
. It all depends on how a person drives and maintains a vehicle Air conditioning compressor--70k to 90k miles Alternator--70k to 90k miles Automatic
Hello all First of all Ill introduce myself. Im the (hopefully) proud new owner of a 1994 E320 with 143000 miles on the clock. I paid 2400. I bought the car to use as my daily driver so that my Mustang GT can be my weekend fun car. I never have owned a luxury car nor European car so I decided that it was time to change that. This E320 has a near-perfect interior a paint issue on the bumper (which is
Hi I was hoping someone could shred some light on an issue Im having with this Wagon Two summers ago a rebuild transmission was installed It performed beautifully until last summer when the reverse gear went out. What a drag. Had to remove and repair the reverse gear I figured it was rebuilt for forward gears only and I recommend anyone getting a transmission insure the reverse gear has been rebuilt
My 2001 SLK 320 with 6 speed stick shift (thats a manual for our European readers ) is in the dealer for the second time with an EXTREMELY notchy gear box (requiring extreme force to shift) when shifting into first or second with a cold engine its just very clunky when warm. Third through sixth gears are silky smooth in comparison.br br The car has 2400 miles since new (Jan 2001) and the reason is
Ive recently been extended an offer for an 86 300E with a 5-speed transmission for 1000... The body is not in the best of shape so it will merely be a parts car. This will be the starting point for a relatively intensive project for my 88 300E. Heres the plan so far. First of course is the transmission. Seeing as it needs a rebuild I was wondering (since supposedly its a Getrag-built transmission)
on the engine is childs play and costs about 150 in parts The T5 transmission is simple to rebuild and theyre a dime a dozen. And you can do simple upgrades to beef it up a little bit. Rebuild parts for the trans can be anywhere from 100-500 and you can do it yourself You can get a wiring schematic remove any parts of the Mustang engine harness that you dont need and wire it into the stock mercedes
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I had called the Mt. Vernon fellow a few weeks ago when he had it for 100. Never was able to get there. If I could survive SWMBA finding a junker outside I would snag if fast just as a parts car. Any 114115 you get will need parts and free is best price. What the CL guy with the 220D describes is the common failure points for the car. From discussions with people on other lists this car is not worth
I need a B Service (out of warranty) and have decided to do it myself (with help from T_Aguilera who is much smarter about such things than me). I just cant see paying what the dealer is asking (From 444 AMG Substantially higher) for what amounts to a glorified oil & filter wiper blade and cabin air filter replacement. I am planning to let the dealer do a coolant flush and change the brake fluid as
Quote Bazzle - 1122005 1113 AM Quote 2. What should I use to lube the throttle linkeage and hood hinges and catches Spray silicone lubricant Spray those caburator cleaner. If needed use the cleaner to remove dirt and grease. THEN spray with a lube that stays behind ie lanolin spray chain lube etc. Bazzle I wasnt sure on this recommendation but you generally should never spray a cleaner into a cable
Hey there i was hoping if someone can answer some questions about my freakin supercharger ... What controls it i mean the clutch
what makes it engage and give boost mine is irritating me S sometimes it does engage and i can zoom down the street easily and sometimes when i press the pedal expecting boost nothing come on S the clutch
doesnt engage at all and the things is it can come back 10mins later
Quote Originally Posted by darkan Hey there i was hoping if someone can answer some questions about my freakin supercharger ... What controls it i mean the clutch what makes it engage and give boost mine is irritating me S sometimes it does engage and i can zoom down the street easily and sometimes when i press the pedal expecting boost nothing come on S the clutch doesnt engage at all and the things
HELP I bought a 1974 350SL last week and have been browsing for replacement parts. I have been able to find a few overseas but they are not cheap and the shipping is rather pricey. Are there other 3.5 engines that have compatable parts with the 116.982 Things like belts hoses ignition wires fuel pumps starters distributors rocker arms and ball studs valves and internal parts Is there a resource that
Quote Originally Posted by rowdie That is why I mentioned the EGv107 link. httpwww.benzworld.orgforumsr-c1...mlpost5345471 Duh I completely missed the first line of your post last night. BTW can anyone reccomend a shipper I had a great quote to get the 350sl to NC from California if running. Unfortunately she will only run 15 seconds at a time when manually (not manuelly) fed fuel and the clutch cable is frozen.
ok ever wish you hadnt started something ive had an intermittant prob of lack of power on accelleration occuring few times a week and getting worse. I suspected the K40 soldering problem but also ordered a new MAF. I fitted the new MAF at the weekend and it didnt improve things so I pulled the K40 relay unit out and yes a nice big dry joint in the usual place on the connector to plug A also noticed
Thanks V much Subby thats fantastic ok looking at the diagrams the K40 provides 12v via circuit 87 to the SC clutch and the clutch is released by a feed directly from the N310 via plug F pin 21 Ive measured at the clutch socket and correctly have around 14V when running at pin 1 but when i rev the car the N310 does not appear to be applying 0V via plug F pin 21 checked continuity of the cable back
Actualo photo of the coolant temperature switches on my car. After a while fighting (I was just tired of pouring like a half a litre of gas on the venturi everytime I wanted a ride) with hard starting cold (after the repair of the engine remember) I got mad today. I made a variable resistor gizmo (fixed at 300 ohms for 80 celsius on the diagram for warm engine as the engine is warm I have no major
Here are the results THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENSOR Ive disconnected the sensor under the thermostat housing and then checked the dash gauge...dead connected it back...good reading... SO in colnclusion the gause is triggered by that 1 pin thermo-switch. FAN clutch After verifying the connectivity of the cables it seems the connectors were correctly allignet afterall. The 2 pins front thermo-switch
Quote Originally Posted by Samoila Stefan Here are the results THE COOLANT TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENSOR Ive disconnected the sensor under the thermostat housing and then checked the dash gauge...dead connected it back...good reading... SO in colnclusion the gause is triggered by that 1 pin thermo-switch. FAN clutch After verifying the connectivity of the cables it seems the connectors were correctly allignet
Okay so with my friends help Ive decided to just replace the water pump by myself instead of dealer who wants ridiculous amounts for it and labor. I got it diagnosed and Ill need water pump replacement and coolant flush. For the water pump I called benz
parts department and they said they only have rebuilt one (which he swears by) and its 214.50 w old exchange. Then I thought I would look on the net
SLK Water Pump removal and installation from Chilton. To Remove 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and drain the cooling system. 2. Remove or disconnect the following Fan clutch fan and shroud. Engine cover if equipped. Accesory drive belt and tensioner. Secondary air injection switchover valve if equipped. Power steering pump and position the pump aside leaving the hoses attached. Water pump
Hello all I am considering my options to lower the engine speed of a 1987 190D2.5 Turbo its about 2900rpm when going 70mph. I was wondering what differential was in it (i.e. ratio maybe 3.42) and what replacements are available that are drop inbolt in (read no crazy mods). The power off of the line is more than adaquate and I would be willing to accept a little less acceleration for a more comfortable
There are two easy adjustments that may help you become more satisfied with your 190. The vacuum modulator only affects harshnesssmoothness of each shift it cannot change the shift point. That is done by adjusting the length of the bowden cable which can be done under the hood. There is a plastic nut just where the cable terminates at the throttle linkage. Ive seen yellow and green but youll probably
My wife drives a 1992 300TE. Since weve owned it (about a year and a half) the heatAC blower has been pretty lack luster. It blows very softly on low and only a little bit more on high (still soft). Pressure remains the same if you put the heat on (EC) or have the AC on (which by the way went earlier this year). So my first question is could it be the blower motor that is causing the poor blowing of
You would need some help to test various things but that is fine we can help. First the ac system is not very complex to diagnose provided you have the relevane information. However it is also not as simple as just a compressor breaking down. More often than less it is not the compressor because the compressor on a MB is quite well protected against self destruction. First the basics The major parts
I have 1987 300 TDT. Sunroof was working fine didnt notice any problems. It wouldnt open fiddled with the switch a little while driving and it went to the tilt up position. Now it wont close stuck tilted up. I checked the motor by the spare tire . Turned the motor witha 17mm socketed nothing happened. Any suggestions thanks.
Both the tilt and slide are managed by the single cable. To drop the tilt down the cable must pull on the mechanism just as if if were sliding the top back and vice versa. To tilt the top up the cable just pushes the mechanism past the full stop position and the lift arms proceed to tilt up the rear of the panel. You may have a problem with a loose clutch or broken cable or lift arms.
Hi I have a 2000 SLK 230 5 speed stick. For the last several months when I go to start the starter will not engage ( like a bad solenoid). All other electrical works. Up until today it would eventually start. Once I put jumper cable
s on it and that started it but that wont work now. Ive cleaned the cable
s and tapped on the starter and solenoid (which is in a hard place to reach). I can pop the clutch
When I start the car cold it makes a sound from under the hood right front side of the engine (airbox area) it sounds like a cheap tire air compressor with nothing hooked up to it (no load) under a minute later it stops making the noise - the noise stops instantly. The car always starts and runs 100% smooth as anything just this funny air compressor type noise. It doesnt seem to do it hot but first
Remove the black plastic cover (with the MB star) on the front of the engine. near the radiator. It pulls up after helping the two side tabs release. On the left side toward center youll find a 2-3 pin connector with cables going in two directions. Its black - look carefully. Trace out the left direction cable it goes to the smog pump. Unplug the connector. Tape off the ends and tuck them back where
I just recently bought an 1985 190D 2.2l with the auto trans. I would like to find a 5 sp manual tranny for it. My questions are what years and models of trannys will fit and what kind of price should I consider as fair Thank you for any information you can help with.
Here is a list of everything including the obvious things. I do understand you are working with a diesel and some things might be slightly different but Im sure you wont have a problem -Transmission (duh) -Driveshaft (they will be different lengths because the automatic is longer. Also the support bearing will come out with the driveshaft so no need to worry about that) -Rear differential (Im not sure
I think the most annoying problem Ive had on my 124s is transmission oil leaks. Every car. Well maybe not TE2 the one with the genuine MBZ rebuilt box. And its never been a one step fix for me. The red 260E300E was first and I fought long and hard to stop an annoying leak at the right rear corner. I replaced the o-rings on the kickdown solenoid only to find that the solenoid body had some tiny cracks.
I havent done this but looked into it a few months back when I broke the adjuster on my Bowden cable. Ended up fixing the adjuster with a motorcycle clutch cable adjuster so I didnt have to do it. From what I read you dont need to drop the Trans just the pan. You can unhook and hook the cable up from the valve body this way. Dealer confirmed it when I asked the tech about it while getting an alignment. Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
hi folks long time lurker first time poster here.. 99 slk-230 have had this rattling noise coming from the engine for quite a while now.. especially when putting it in gear to move from standstill or coming to a stop.. it goes away when its in park... there doesnt seem to be any loss of power leakage or increase in gas consumption...I asked the adviser at the dealer but you guys know the drill gotta cough up that couple hours labour so you can get an answer what could the source of the noise be
Quote Originally Posted by salex100m Actually you can throttle the engine by yourself (just pull the throttle cable ). .... Whats a compresser clutch Thanks If you have a 230 SLK 1998-2000 aka pre-facelift modelyour compressor is engaged by a clutch (wheel right next to the idler pulley) usually when rpm 2000. A friedworn clutch might announce its illness by rattles. On the other other if you have
Hi I was wondering is it doable to change the clutch
plate and the rear axle of this car by myself Or is a specialist really needed. Time patience parts are no problems Money is. If you need more details just ask. best regards matteus
thanks for the advice guys. but Id like to know the following How big is the difference in price between removing it yourself and just buying the clutch plate or buying the clutch plate and let it do by an MB-specialist. Id think the second thing would cost alot because there seem to be a lot of hard labor and time neccessary. What prize should I expect if I let a MBspecialist do it also the cardan
Hey guys remember spring of 2012 when my transmission went out and I swapped in a 3.0 and fixed my transmission in under a week Well guess whats about to happen again... So tonight driving in snowy Michigan first winter since Ive lowered my 190 I happen upon a curb that is entirely obscured by a snow bank. This curb is very much unlike the last curb (which had a grudge against my entire suspension
End of day 3 New 3.0 with new headintakeexhausttiming gaskets is in the car along with the Getrag pedal box shifter and driveshaft. Everything on top of the engine is put back together. clutch lines ran but one of the autozone fittings was mis-labeled threads didnt line up and it stripped. Tomorrow replace stripped bits in clutch line tighten engine mounts bolt up driveshaft and exhaust bolt in speedo
Quote Originally Posted by MacktheKnife End of day 3 New 3.0 with new headintakeexhausttiming gaskets is in the car along with the Getrag pedal box shifter and driveshaft. Everything on top of the engine is put back together. clutch lines ran but one of the autozone fittings was mis-labeled threads didnt line up and it stripped. Tomorrow replace stripped bits in clutch line tighten engine mounts bolt
1984 500 sl mini 2 speed manual tranny with reverse single disc brake steering rack needs some love gonna give it the once over couldnt resist
So I spent some time on this 500sl mini go kart project... the body was pretty well checked dinged scratched cracked got the peeling clear coat off then sanded down to the primer tried to get as many imperfections out as possible added some bondo to a couple spots then hit body with a coat of primer rattle can style then once over with a coat of chrome aluminum worked on the cables clutch intake springs
hi all have any of you bought this item shown link below www.pogiparts.de Der Geheimtip fÃ¼r Individualisten Edel-Tuning does anyone have any idea about this manufacturer is this item easy to fit waiting your opinions thanx cyp
Start your SLK like a SL being entitled by push of a button. This set contains everything which it needs &8226 Starter button &8226 Relays &8226 Wiring with links &8226 Cover with signature &8226 Lighting with light conductors The cover possesses a signature is lit. This lighting illuminates at the same time the shelf outstanding. These covers develop to 100&37 in manual work as one-off production.
First of all the car spec is 1987 190e 16v 5 speed manual transmission. The car currently runs fine except for that little issue stated on the title. I have checked for lowtight cable
vacuum leak and plate. Everything seems good and working properly. The car idle well and start without hesitation. Below is some scenarios of the issue. Everything is while car is up to temperature. 1) in neutralsitting