mercedes benz class b clutch cable
Answers and questions: mercedes benz class b clutch cable
I have reached a point wherein I need to seek help. My 1989 260E ac stopped working. So I started venturing to troubleshoot. Found out that the 30 amps fuselink was damaged and so I replaced. That did not solve the problem so I replaced the klima relay. That didnot solve the problem either. After reading many threads in the forum and checking out possible various defective parts and not knowing better
Hi Incredible after 2 years of standing there I charged the battery up and the car started again ....But the last time that I tried to play mechanics I broke the plastic of the Bowden cable
Now my question is how much could it cost to have replace at a garage I just need an approx. Its either fixing it or buying another one ( Got my eyes on a 190e 2.3 1993 w 250 000km for about 1750) Thank you have a great day
The bowden cable is replaceable by dropping the pan and unhooking it from the valve body. The one for your car should be cheap since it doesnt have the extra vacuum controls for the delayed upshift that some of the later cars had. I broke the threaded collar on mine reinstalling the trans a few months ago and managed to get it back together with an aluminum motorcycle clutch adjuster collar and a bunch of epoxy. Not the most elegant solution but it works
so the passenger seat is stuck in a forward position and the motor will let it go forward but not return to the back. you can kind of hear the motor trying to run back because it squeaks but nothing happens. any idea how i go about fixing this
AFAIK there is no slip clutch like in the sunroof the mechanism is tied directly to the motor. My guess is the bowden cable in your seat is broken.. new one is 25 from the stealership and replacement is a DIY job (but a terrible one)
Presently I am seeking a viable reputable vendor for an after-market warranty for my baby... 02 CL 600 with 50K miles. I RESIDE IN THE NYC AREA ALSO THIS IS MY 1ST CL-600 ANY ADVICE REPAIR SCARES ETC Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you Jazzzzz
Maybe their exclusionary (meaning that EVERYthing is covered except that which is specifically excluded). THIS PLAN IS THE BEST EXCLUSIONARY BUMPER-TO-BUMPER COVERAGE AVAILABLE. Warranty Offered By Auto Advantage Inc. Underwriters AM Best Rating ASuperior (Which means the highest level of financial security) Vehicle Eligibility YES This vehicle qualifies Thank you for your request for a price quote
Quote Originally Posted by dwaldmann Maybe their exclusionary (meaning that EVERYthing is covered except that which is specifically excluded). WHAT IS NOT COVERED Any damage caused by abuse negligence accident collision theft or fire. Any servicing maintenance tune-ups oil changes fluid replacements etc. as recommended and required by the manufacturer including adjustments and alignments (except when
Now that I have rebuilt the transmission on my 300 TE. I am planning out what I need to do next. What is on your to do list Mine 1.Rear SLS struts are not operational. Replace both and accumulators. 2. Front control arms and springs both sides. 3. Fan clutch
has a slight wobble needs to go. 4. PO replaced blower motor but not the controller need to pull that mess apart because the controller went 2
Mine is a long list.. but thats the fun Engine Mount Transmission Mount clutch Overhaul Coolant Level Sender Lower the Car Accel cable Injector Cleaning Respray Interior change from gray to something better [How I have no clue]
Hiya I am 90% sure I am getting a 2001 MB SLK320 w48000 miles 6 sp man Xenon heated seat etc for 20900.00 It seems to be a decent price but it needs 4 tires front brake pads and rotors. One of the heated washer cover for the headlight is loose. I went to my local dealer and got the VMI(Vehicle Master Inquiry) and found out the car had a lot of warranties work..like - Door lining clutch
Just totaled up all the money I spent on my black 1988 560SL Delilah since I purchased it. Including a purchase price of 13500 in October of 2004 all receipts I have to date total 24962.79. That figure is probably off by 700.00 since I know Im missing a receipt for tires when I first got the car and probably a few others. So for less then 26K I have owned the car for 6 years now and put 58K miles on
Quote Originally Posted by str8evl so those are the prices for all of your repair bills on top of oil and gas and tire rotations To break it down for you Feb 5 2010 Purchase Price 7750.00 Feb 11 2010 Title registration 255.85 Feb 12 2010 Repair and Service 4849.48 Towing AC compressor AC receiver dryer AC oil fitting freon AC press switch AC sensor door lock striker valve cover gasket oil level
Anyone with an automatic 230 R170 wished they had got the MT instead Ive had 4 different two-seaters and they were all manuals so Im inclined to stick with the MT in my search for the right slk.
If you want a manual gearbox Id go for a different car if I were you. The SLKs box is not one of the best. The new ones got rod linkages instead of cables so it might be better. Its not actually the fault of the gearbox itself. Its a combination of non-linear heavily sprung throttle long clutch travel with little feel and slightly obstinate gear linkages. I personally think both manual boxes and torque convertors are now history. DSG or SMG are the way to go.
Hey everyone I have a bunch of great parts up for sale --------------- 190e 16v body kit - 850 190e 16v LSD - 275 190e (all models) Depo Euro Headlights - 250 (used for 3 months conversion caps all included) 2.6 Custom Turbo Manifold - 675 2.6 Complete Manual Transmission - Open to offers dont really want to sell it though. Complete with all clutch cable
s shifter assembly 2.6 flywheel manual trans
Can anyone tell me how to remove or replace the sunroof motor in the trunk of a 1989 W124 My roof stuck recently I managed to close it by hand so the cable
would appear to fine. The motor sounds OK and on the button but nothing moves The clutch
nut slips after a point. Followed all the info on the Forum especially yours Spanners. Appreciate any help as its HOT here in Spain or should I leave it alone
Hi I have a 95 E320 Sedan. Symptom was no HVAC. Fuse 7 was blown replaced it & it blew again. Began to troubleshoot components & in doing so refused it & now it cranks but will not start. No other fuses are blown. Fuse in OVP is good. Also the other little Hella single pole relay behind the battery with the fuse on it has a good fuse. Any ideas
A few suggestions . . . 1. Your car is from the deteriorating wiring harness era - is the harness in good condition If it has deteriorated stop do not pass go do not collect 200 dollars and replace the harness before any (more) damage occurs. The symptoms you describe are ALL consistent with a deteriorated harness. 2. You have an M104 HFM-SFI so there is no EZL module. 3. The Amperes-squared-t (let
1991 190E 2.3 Auto Unknown miles - Odo does not work. speedometer does. When I originally obtained the car it had a problem with the idle surging and then backing off repeatedly down to normal idle. The idle would rise to about 1500 RPM and then back to about 500 RPM. It also had overheating problems along with a bunch of minor problems. One day the idle problem stopped occurring. I figured it could
I bought an 87 2.3 8v 74k miles with a 5-speed and a blue interior (Im taking the front and rear seats). Im pulling the transmission either tomorrow or Wednesday to put into my 92 2.3 auto. Obviously Im also getting clutch
(everything) flywheel pilot bearing driveshaft pedal cluster shifter rear diff speedo cable
...I have a much more detailed list somewhere else. I have two important questions 1. What
while in drive at a red light i dont want that even tho its tolerable for most others i want my optima yellowtop battery to last me forever
The change from neutral to drive kinda throws me off track I have had shorted reverse ( back up lights ) switches that make the eng. die when shifted. other than that. It could be a transmission electrical problem. How much is the RPM change from in and out of gear 100 -200 rpm If you can Load up the alternator with the headlights on only and it drops to 11.8 v then its a charging system problem
My super charger takes a 2-3 seconds after I push the gas pedal all the way down to spool up. Is that normal
supercharger dont have lag check throttle cable or magnetic clutch for the supercharger
The supercharger should be felt throughout the rev range if Im not mistaken. I agree with vzn check the throttle cable or magnetic clutch.
Hello w124 owners. As my signature might indicate im already well versed in many things MB. Ive even owned another 1994 M104 vehicle for more than a decade and am well aware of all the wiring harnesshead gasket issues (having repaired them myself btw). But as the topic implies I will soon be venturing into the realm of w124s. Its a soft spot for me as my mother worked her whole life to obtain her dream
Thought Id follow it up with a check in after purchase of this car. What Ive done new steering wheel from ebay (like new OEM leather) new Depo OEM clone headlights with silverstar white bulbs new cheapo piece of crap s600 style grille I will be replacing with a true avant-garde one day. replaced AC blower motor AC evap leak but requires one refill per summer. Im leaving it alone for now until I have
Cooling system stuff I recently went through something very similar. I replaced my thermostat and that didnt do it. Eventually I discovered that one problem was that my aux fans were not coming on at all while the AC was on. A bad fuse on my aux fan relay was one culprit but I replaced that fuse and the problem remained. I spent an afternoon taking stuff apart and putting it back together testing connections
Hello dDoes anyone have any suggestions as to where to start with regard to weak closure of electric sunroof Opening isnt that bad but will not make it closing unless I pull on it. There also seems to be wind noise coming from it I dont see any water getting in from sealbut the noise coud very well be to incomplete closure even though from the outside it looks closed.My mechanic says he may need
. I have no hands on experience but do know there is a tension adjustment on the motorclutch assembly for the cables. Also there is a tips and advice vendor out there selling a kit with the MB grease and a how to vid with the proper info for lubing the sunroof rails and such
Hey guys Im gonna be buyin my first mercedes
soon and Im hopin you gius could give me some assistance here. Quick back story I used to be big into fox body mustangs and owned an 86 Mustang. Then my mom got a w210 e320 and ever since driving that car Ive been all for mercedes benz
. haha So add that to the fact that I found my Mustang was becoming too much of a project and I needed a car that could comfortably
Oh and I still run a 92GT Fox. No issues (well the clutch cable is nearly gone). aardvark
Read this artical on the comparisons with the Audi TT Bmw M Honda S2000 SLK 320.....br Where do you think the SLK landedhttpwww.mysimon.comcobrandframedindex.jhtmlcnewcars&typead&url%2Flink%2Fredire ct.jhtml%3Fpartner%3DEdmunds%26url%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2F www.edmunds.com%2Fvehicles%2Fbr
I cant believe how the MB gets bashed for the MT6. My last car was a BMW Z3 2.8 and it had a great gearbox. All the press loved it. I now have my 320 with the MT6 and I think it is terrific. Not quite as great as the BMWs box but not much behind. Smooth easy shifts. Great gearing. The clutch is a bit too quick but I got used to that. The gearbox in the TT is much worse. The boxster has not had great reviews for its cable assisted gearchanger either. I dont get it.
Got in the cartried to open the sunroofnothingfuse is finewhat nextIt is a95 E 320.
Check the sunroof switch and the relay block. Can you hear the motor in the trunk If the motor is running but the sunroof isnt moving its likely that the cable clutch is adjusted to too light a pressure. This can be tested by manually cranking the sunroof open with the included tool at the sunroof motor assembly mounted behind the drivers side rear quarter panel.
Hi All This is a first post for me. I own a 190e with sliding roof 1991 1.8 auto. The roof when I got it would only open about 3 inches then jam - I would then have to use the manual crank in the boot to close it. This I did a number of times and now the switch wont move the roof at all. I have used the manual crank to open it fully and to raise it fully also. It moves fine with the crank but using
Hi Les and MTI Thanks for your advice - Im gonna tackle it this weekend - I briefly checked the tracks - they look fine on both sides - when manually cranking it requires a certain amt of pressure (maybe normal resistance of roof) but it moves smoothly all the way back and up also (yes Les the roof does lift also). Thats good advice Les about disconnecting the worm gear (presume thats the cable) anyway
Sometimes when I start my SLK 230 from 98 I dont get any boostpressure at all. This happens without any reasonable cause. It wont come back if I just turn the engine off or leave it for some minutes. It seems like the supercharger wont work at all. Most often everything works fine but this has happened a couple of times now. What could be wrong How do I reset the ECU Loosing the battery connector Can I clean the MAF myself thanks for your help. Jonas
clutch engages at 2000rpm can be seen while looking at it and goosing the tthrottle cable. I would advise on checking for holes or leaks in your intake stream. Also do you have oil contamination in your intake track If so you have a failed oil seperator and may have damged your MAF.
Hi My 1st post. Car 1993 16v E200 in Singapore Question From a cold start or a warm start (after car has been resting for say 30mins) I accelerate from 1st to 2nd gear normal. When in 2nd gear stepping gradually on the accelerator pedal to about 3000rpm and then letting it go would cause the car to decelerate very rapidly. The cars STRONG resistance to move forward causes me to lurk forward slightly.
Hi Yal Will try to highlight what u suggested to my mechanic when I visit him next time. I had already spent quite some on this issue to no luck. When I went for a tranny overhaul some months back the receipt indicated these were done replaced control cable clutches brake bands shims autotrans filter retainer spring n pin k1-k3 inner discs autotrans oil and gasket. With all that done the gear change
Hi Guys My sunroof only tilts up and down i think the motor in the sunroof is buggered. I read in a post that it is possible to retract the sunroof from the trunk. How do i do this and also can the manual wind actually pull the sunroof back Thankyou Jason
Jason find the motor unit in the trunk there is a hex insert out of plastic that will turn the drive ( it should be in your tool kit ). Its sort of a rough ratchety spin as you are slipping a safety clutch should have the roof jam while closing . If your cable is broken your out of luck .
Just wondering for some time now my E320 wagon has felt rather weak. When I press the gas the cars engine revs up and the car starts trundling along but it feels strained and the engine sounds buzzy and droning. Theres also a noticeable difference in how sluggish it feels between when Im diving it alone and when it has other people in it again suggesting power loss. On the highway the car flies nicely
Until fairly recently I was under the impression that the only serviceable components of the 722 transmission were inputoutput shaft seals the pan gasket filter modulator etc. No transmission shop would touch one (or be able to obtain parts for one). You could buy a used transmission or get a remanufactured one from the authorized ZF facility (in Chicago I think). You ordered a transmission and had
My car developed a new thing a few weeks ago. It used to have a small hitch while shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear almost like when you drive a manual-5 speed and you keep the clutch
depressed too long so the car would rev-up to high rpm. I bought the car like this and I just lived with it since I didnt pay a lot of money for this car. It was manageable and I just tried not paying attention to it. Now
Finally getting into the restoration of my 86 190e 5 speed. I bought the car for 1000 with a wrecked passenger side door and fender and a lot of aftermarket parts. I scored a new door and fender at the local pull a part for 50 and a complete perfect dash for 50 as well the dash was a lucky find. The car came equipped with h&r springs and sway bars adjustable strut tower bars Bilstein Sport shocks Bosch
Hi all Ive posted a while a go my 1988 300E with the setup of the Twin Turbo on the m103 ... pictures here In case you missed it Actually i converted from Twin Turbo ( after a couple of head gasket job ) to single turbo. Still i had to change it with current setup 2 times this year Unfortunately under too little stress and cylinder & pistons are gone I think this is just more than enough of practicing
Hi again Update The car is back and running Changes & Mods New Head & All gaskets New Radiator New water bump New water thermostat New Sachs clutch & Disk MSD 6 AL MSD Coil Blaster Manual boost controller AFR Kit and using a Fully Synthetic Fuchs engine and Gear oil Installed AIC1 ( Additional Injector Controller ) got its cable & cd ... etc Need help on 1 - Setting up the AIC1 unit can anybody
I bought my SLC in July. I finally got around to dying the center counsole tonight. It wasnt easy to pull out. While I was at it I decided to scrap the sony CD player for a factory Becker. There was an obvious aftermarket harness for the Sony. I cut it. I have the becker 612. Need to match it up to the remaining factory harness. But the AC stopped working. I noticed two black wires coming out of the
Depending on location the connector could be the compressor clutch. Modern radios needs direct battery power so if you want to keep your options open this would be a good time to install such a cable.
Quote Originally Posted by hchaugli Depending on location the connector could be the compressor clutch. Modern radios needs direct battery power so if you want to keep your options open this would be a good time to install such a cable. There was a working cd player installed in the dash. It had what I saw as a seperate wiring harness. Ill probably have to check the factory harness which was still
I have an opportunity to purchase a black 2001 SLK230 with 67000 miles for 16000 or I can purchase a blue 2001 SLK320 with 80000 miles for 19000. I understand typically the 320 doesnt cost that much more than the 230 but I think Im getting a good deal on the 230. The 230 is a standard and checks out for service history. I like the blue but Im not sure if the blue and 320 are worth the 3000 extra considering
Post face lift is 2001 and newer. In addition to some exterior changes there are some mechanical ones as well throttle is no longer cable but uses a sensor (drive by wire type thing) supercharger no longer has a clutch so its engaged all the time now MAF location is different eliminating a power dead spot around 2k rpms.
Hey guys.... So I was in Los Angeles area this past weekend on a car show get together in Van Nuys and afterwards couple of us went to some local junkyards... Well...I stumbled on a 1980 350SLC Hardtop (non removable). Unfortunately when I got to it a guy was already unbolting the Euro bumpers but I was the first one to spot that it had 4 speed MT Found a guy that took everything off for the complete
Well Because of lack of funds and a large supply of ambition I am attempting to rebuild my 722.358. I have been scouring the internet for weeks collecting information. I figured I would share some of what I have discovered for you other insanely ambitious folks. Step 1 Download and memorize the pdf links below- all 150 pgs of each httpwww.w124-zone.comdownloadsM...ns_removal.pdf httpwww.w124-zone.comdownloadsp...722_repair.pdf
After some advise from George Fraser I purchased & installed a second battery the largest yellow top Optima YT S 5.5 (75Ah 9001125CCA) in the boot. I have the standard Bosch 66Ah 510CCA battery under the bonnet. After wiring up the second battery by running some 4ga cable
from the terminal the alternator (150A) is wired to to the Optima I noticed the ABS Light turning on. It comes on then goes out
Hi Brabus. It would be interesting to know exactly how you connected the second battery. Where did you get ground When you say separate circuit are you sure Does the lights on the stereo turn on with the rest of the dashboard lights What you experienced with your mulimeter is normal. Even if your battery has been drained it might still be OK. Always top up a flat battery with a good battery charger.
Hi I have an 95 w124 250d with 722.4 gearbox I thinking of swapping the .4 box with an .3 box wich I have in stock is it a bolt on swap and what is the differences with these boxes about from .3 boxes have the large casing. will it fit with the driveshaft and the converter and what about the electric connector selector rod and the cable
anything else I forgot thankfull for any answer
Hi Boyd the rason I am thinking of changing the box is beause I have a flair between 2-3 gear I have changed the k1 piston kit it helped a bit but I must still get of the throttle for it to change without jumping out of gear before 3rd is engaged. The reason for the .3 swap is for the previously owner bought it for swap so I assumed it was the rigt box but no. maybe its just as easy to sell the .3
Unfortunately looks like my 260E has fallen victim as well now. I thought it was the pan leaking so did a full fluid change and now its leaking even more. Definitely the front pump seal. This is how to recognize it It will drip off the crossmember and if you caught it in action through the torque converter access grating. Wonderful Looks like shes gotta come out too now This maintenance list is racking up...
Full re-seal & replace the reverse clutch fiber discs. Also the NSSreverse lamp switch and bowden cable. Rear main seal for good measure.
Ok this forum has been a really big help to me. but i cant find anything on my problem. I had flair and rear end clunk and wandering. I replaced the frontrear subframe bushings and that got rid of my shifting clunk and going in to reverse clunk. But the transmission is still flaring. It only does it when i go from a complete stop and accelarate to about 30-40km and soon as it hits 2500rpm it flairs
Quote Originally Posted by jhodg5ck Lucas is good but Ive come to like B&M trick shift better. Lucas boosts line pressure through Really thick viscosity B&M has additives that get the clutches to Stick. Never heard of or seen B&M around here (will keep an eye out) Quote Originally Posted by w124newbie What is the valve body you are talking about where abouts on the transmission is it I have the lucas
I am considering a W124 coupe and know what engine accessory items to look for in records. However I have heard that even on well maintained specimens transmissions can go at 150k. Is this common thanks
I had a 95 Nissan Stanza that was the most problematic car Ive ever had. Got rid of it at 60K miles. The clutch cable broke at least once a year. Sergio ALL trucks or Asian cars go 200K without a hitch .
Hello. Ive finally sourced a transmission and all associated parts. The attached pic shows the parts that Ive got in addition to the transmission itself. Is there any other parts that I would need I dont want to get half way and then realise Im missing a part or two. Is there anything that is missing My mechanic is doing the swap for me. He said I might need a pumpmaster cylinder for the clutch
From the looks of the parts youve got there it seems like there is a cable attached to the clutch pedal. That leads me to believe that this is not a hydraulic system which means no masterslave cylinder needed. Is the driveshaft the same between the auto and manual transmissions You should measure them and also check to make sure the yokes are the same.
Hello all I recently purchased a 1986 300E with 160k on it and have spent the past month slowly replacing things that it needed including new control arm bushings ball joints tie rods steering idle arm bushings mostly front end stuff. However since I was still finishing my senior year up in highschool it stayed jacked up in the front for about 3-4 weeks before I was able to finish. Then I replaced
Again even if one allows the transmission to completely drain (impossible unless you drop the valve body) all the clutches will still have enough fluid on them to be OK for the breifest of moments until normal pressure brings fluid to everything. It would mighty hard to jamb the bowden cable while changing fluid but I suppose anything is possible. Have you checked your fluid level yet Jonathan
Hello I have a 1991 300D 2.5 TD My engine is overheating. Temperature gauge goes up to 120 degrees when idling on traffic or when coming off the highway (sped 60-70 km) and drops after a minute or so. When driving at 100 kmh the temp is below 90 or some times just above. Today it went up to 120 and I turned the car off. Verified the aux fans and they were running. I had the car on a specialized shop
Ok so instead of of posting a bunch of post about issues I am having im going to put them all into one huge gripe. So I just paid 1300 for a 1992 190e 2.6 auto. The ac works but the cold air only comes out of the front vents. None of the other options work. The whole car vibrates and I know it needs motor mounts but im not real sure how many mounts these cars have or what the best brands are Also every
You need to do some homework first if you intend to fix all the issues with your W201. I suggest downloading and installing the PDF manual from the FAQ section of this forum. AC does the comp. clutch engages do you see freon flow through the peep hole of the dryer does the front fans work if you jump the aux fan switch SPEEDO I can smell something fishy with the speedo.... if it is bouncy it will be
Based on the original 722.3 tranny we made a Bellhousing (19 cm) for a Getrag 265 5-speed conversion. As the getrag intake driveshaft is a little longer it is possible to make a distance plate which is centered in the original hole of the automatic driveshaft. I use a BMW Alpina B7 clutch
(over 600 NM). The throwout bearing is hydraulic. Flywheel is similar to the one we have seen times ago on 500ecstasy
Hi I bought the car a month and a half ago as a project for 1075. Since then Ive replaced the rotors brake pads struts lower radiator hose and expansion tank. I had a mechanic replace the fan clutch
water pump valve gasket and serpentine belt. The only remaining issues are that none of the windows work the cruise control doesnt work and the heater core is broken. Ive taken the car to a couple of mechanics
Quote Originally Posted by rsteckly Hi I bought the car a month and a half ago as a project for 1075. Since then Ive replaced the rotors brake pads struts lower radiator hose and expansion tank. I had a mechanic replace the fan clutch water pump valve gasket and serpentine belt. The only remaining issues are that none of the windows work the cruise control doesnt work and the heater core is broken.
I need an opnion on auto transmission for my W124 E320 wagon 145k mi. Had the upshift delay cable
replaced about 10k mi ago. About 2k mi ago the reverse started giving me problems only going reverse when cold but once at operating temp the reverse lost power and slips but will still move slowly on a straight but not uphill. Everything else still works fine driving all the shifts work great from what
Considering building a track car and was wondering what the chances are of coming up with the components to build a stick m119 car. Were any of the v8s available with a stick (SLs sedans )
Get the pedals out of a stickshift 300EE320 get a Tremec T56 transmission out of a Mustang or Viper (theres a lot in the used Mustang parts market) have a custom bellhousing made or modified and then youll have to figure something out for a flywheel clutch fork and cable or hydraulic system for the pedal. The only thing Im not sure of is where the shifter will come up through the floor. Could be expensive
Well just before I start my painting process for my W124 I thought I sort out all the tiny list of mechanical I had identified namely below 1.Accel cable
2.Flexi Disc 3.clutch
Overall 4.Bleed change all fluids 5.Suspension Bushes Now coming to the point five I have started noticing that my rear is visibly higher than the front not sure if you guys can make out from the pic but it in nearly 1-2 inch