mercedes benz class b clutch cable
Answers and questions: mercedes benz class b clutch cable
it seems that ive been loosing some power so i did my search here found some stuff thanks to all but i need help with the following plugged the scanner and 4 codes came up cleared it and took it for a good drive just to see if the codes will come back and they did here are the following P1420 MB air pump switchover valve. P1235 () P1525 Right adjustable camshaft timing solenoid P0130 02 sensor circuit malfunction (Bank 1) (sensor 1) any help will be great Thanks alot
Quote Originally Posted by silberpfeil1234 The SC kicks in at approx 2000 rpm. Open the hood have s.o. on the gas pedal and observelisten to the clutch that should engage with a clack about then. Throttle cable inside the hood You dont even need to have someone else do it. Just give the cord a little pull. No brainer.
I ran by the Pick-n-Pull today to pick up a couple of w124 ashtray assemblies. The donor cars were later models (93 and 94). I could not move the shifters out of park on those cars. I was wondering if MB added gearshift ignition interlock in the later years of the model run I can move the gearshift in my 87 with the ignition switch locked. I was able to get the ashtrays out past the shifters but was curious if the shifters were locked or jammed.
I think the steering column ignitionshifter interlock became mandatory in the USA for model year 1970. On cars with a column-shifted automatic transmission things werent so bad. On floor shift cars though -- whew Manual trans cars were the worst with funky systems that tied the shifter linkage to the steering column collar with rods bellcranks and (sometimes) cables. Like you say some required you
Quote Originally Posted by augapfel I think the steering column ignitionshifter interlock became mandatory in the USA for model year 1970. On cars with a column-shifted automatic transmission things werent so bad. On floor shift cars though -- whew Manual trans cars were the worst with funky systems that tied the shifter linkage to the steering column collar with rods bellcranks and (sometimes) cables.
All right I got some time to play with the car and I just got my parts from Germanstar. I started with the hood strut and that was a five minute job. Just unclip the bottom then slide the old strut mechanism from its jacket. Assembly in reverse and voila. I changed the park plugs and started with 4. They were all fine until I got to 1. That one had some deposits and the threads were oily. In addition
Hi Everyone I bought an 88 300E a couple of months ago as a secondcommuter car - I drive 60 miles one way to work 4 times a week. Ive always had a thing for the 124s the styling is coming back as the new cars are starting to trend back to the more chiseled look less the rounded look. This far down the road the 300E still turns heads Ive already gotten a few comments from people saying they like my
Repacement tranny is installed and shifts into reverse and drive instantly . Only thing is it shifts hard going to second and third. If I dont lift off the pedal going into second it gets a good chirp from the tires. I have read the posts about adjusting the modulator just want to make sure I understand correctly. To reduce shift pressure you turn the key counterclockwise by pulling the key out of
Quote My tranny does not have a bowden cable. It has a solid rod connected to the throttle linkage. Right but there is an adjustment (turnbuckle affair) on the linkage at the joint where the throttle lever is connected to the straight rod that goes down to the tranny. You can vary the timing of the shifts with this adjustment. As for the modulator better for the transmission to have it a bit on the
Hi guys I have created a new post as I now have a new issue from my initial problem. Two days ago I floored the gas pedal and accelerated through a tunnel then as I started to slow I felt my car was lumpy like miss firing the power was down but I got home. I drove the car the next day and it still was miss firing. When I started to look into the fault I found it to be a faulty ignition coil I replaced
Quote Originally Posted by twins Hi I confirm what you said about the compressor. The outer disc spins only when the compressor engages (I had never noticed though its pretty obvious). And I have to rev the engine up a bit for it to engage. When idling it doesnt spin. Now about the valve I removed the rubber pipe that connects directly to the valve. The valve is horizontal at idle. I didnt rev the
After the sale of my 1984 2.2 5-speed I have wanted a turbo model for quite some time. After months of searching Craigslist regularly I found my 2.5 Turbo. Its pearl black on tan no rust CA car 187k miles. Shes not without her faults. 1. Transmission shifts hard 1-2 flares 2-3 when cold. Update - Fixed leaking vacuum hose 2. ATF leak. Update - Fixed 3. Leaks engine oil. Update - Fixed oil level sender
Bay Area traffic is a nightmare during peak hours. I have a manual tranny BMW for the weekends I want my 2.5 to be a DD cruiser. As cool as a 5 cog 2.5 turbo sounds the clutch work during traffic kills it for me. I will adjust the Bowden cable tonight. Does the service manual specify how its adjusted Or is it be driving feel alone
Need some ideas on what to look for.... Last night the first heavy rain since owning this 99. Puddle in the passengers seat. Maybe a cup or water. If that much. No puddle at all in floorboard and they are dry so the normal clogged drain is not an issue here I dont think. Top is up and locked according to the sensors. But this one is just right in the rear of the passenger seat. No sign whatsoever of
Well... I really cannot find anything evident. But I had a nice sunny day going here so I decided to take advantage of that and Clean those four drain tubes. The two under the hood and the two in the Trunk. I had a good deal of debris in the two front ones but it was lose stuff for the most part. I rigged up a cleaning tube by taking the end off of my Air gun blow off tool and affixing a clear piece
Hello You may notice from the title that i am totally desparate My 190E auto tranny wont shift to 4th gear even with a new overhaul kit installed there are no problems in the fluid & the filter. also i checked (theoretically) 1- the prussure control cable
. 2- the kickdown solenoid. what happens exactly when i choose (d) the car lifts up on 2nd then it shifts to 3rd which is a normal operation ..then
Light turned green and I punched the throttle--thud. The plastic clip broke that secures the cable
. Are you kidding me--a small plastic clip connects my gas pedal to the motor. Anyone done a modification here to get rid of the plastic clip Im referring to the clip at the very end of the cable
which has a small spring and some sort of pivot thing. The clip broke and pulled through the opening that it attaches to. Not fun in city traffic.
Sounds like my old mk2 jetta. clutch cables love to pop off of those. Most annoying. I dont think german engineers are as smart as everyone says.
My 95 E320 does not get proper acceleration off the line and seems very sluggish to get out of this mode i have either keep flooring the gas peddle or more effectively turn off the AC to get the car going. The problem is intermittent and does not occur all the time the car Idles around 5-6 k. Also the AC compressor is always engaged. The AC is always on even when changing the temp. unless it is set