I think that the flywheels and pressure plates are different than the G. Why not just contact Steve at Eurotruck and have him send you the parts Eurotruck Importers Your source for mercedes-benz off-road vehicles and spare parts
I believe it would reduce the free play. The free play is the distance between the throwout bearing and the actuating arms on the pressure plate. As the clutch disc wears (becomes thinner) the arms on the pressure plate move closer to the throwout bearing (as the opposite end of the arms moves closer to the flywheel). __________________ Vincent Canepa Member since 1973 1999 E430 Smoke Silver wParchment full leather  2014 ML350 4Matic Diamond Silver wAuburn Brown-Black leather
There are two wear issues here. The clutch itself and the linkage (since the original post involves a mechanicaly actuated clutch). Wear on the clutch disc would reduce the free play. Wear in the linkage as Joe points out could increase the free play. M-B recommends checking the free play at the throwout arm. I think that clearance is around 4-5 mm (check your manual to be sure - the old Owners Manuals
your gearbox is basically a manual box and as far as I know no differences accept that the ACS actuator does the job of the clutch on a fully manual version I thiunk if you had actuator problems you would get an F display so I would discount that one you could check the sump breather tube that connecting the the ECU induction line and MAY have some bearing on the tick-over which could be causing the problem but Ive not hjeard of thios problem before. There is information on my page 59b that will explain the system every little helps. I cant think why you would want to pree the accelorator and keep your foot on the foot brake normally the car is help on the hand brake see also the instructions for driving ACS which I have taken direct from the owners manual which makes mention of holding the car with the revs. Bert Rowes-mercedes-benz A-class info. mercedes- benz A class (ACS) Auto clutch-less transmission
hi mate I got your pm but better to discuss here to help you and others. The ACS has 2 engagement stages when the brake is pressed and a gear selected the clutch is disengaged. When you select a gear with either hand or foot brake on the clutch stays disengaged when the brake is released the clutch is moved to the biting point then on throttle application the clutch engages fully depending on how much
these are 4 mm allen head from memory). Budget 4 hours if you havent done this before or 2.5 hours if you have (the last half hour is dedicated to burping the air out of the system with engine running and slowly adding coolant through the overflow bowl to the correct fluid level). I replaced mine today see this link R&R of Viscous Coupled Fan Serpentine Belt Replacement W210 E300D - PeachParts mercedes
Quote Originally Posted by Lars It seems like mercedes is aware of the problem with a weak noisy clutch disk and they now can supply a clutch-disk with four strong springs that gives a longer travel for the disk (how much it can move around the center spline-coupling). Inside two of the four springs are two smaller springs to further strengthen the springing action. In the old design there was six
have something to do with it anyone else like to share some knowledge would be good so your saying that you have a 1996 c36 and the 2 electric fans come on at 85 degrees at the same time it was my understanding that the viscous coupling (fan clutch) spins a lot faster at 85 degrees to the cool the engine. and then if it becomes too hot the electric fans kick in at 105 then 115 degrees. may be benz
Quote Originally Posted by Jase Ouch Is that a common known problem Does it just require changing the clutch or is there more to it In addition to whatever clutch kit you buy be sure to check your flywheel for any discolor etc. If it has grooves or color issues have your flywheel resurfaced. I have not done a clutch job on one of these but on my Porsche 944 it is also recommended that you change the
Thats funny. My old Porsche 944 I loved that car. Completely loved it. I had one only one ever reported problem. The clutch blew up on me one day while cruising in Daytona Beach BOOM SMOKE DANG Hello Mr. Tow Truck 1650 later it was all fixed and never ever had another problem with it. Quote Originally Posted by Metafly In addition to whatever clutch kit you buy be sure to check your flywheel for any
Hello Tomibr brThe problem sounds familiar to me. I looked up in some old service information on the G and discovered an update for the 300 GD with a four speed transmission. They say to replace the Driven Plate with part number 007 250 9503. I dont know how much that will help but its information.pPete has some good ideas too. pI must make you aware of the normal noises you will hear from the G diesels.
The rattle you describe is most probably caused by some broken springs in your clutch disc. Very typical for old 300GD diesels. Change the clutch disc to the new type with four large springs
Hi Steve I would start by checking the clutch brake fluid level as air in the clutch system will cause the clutch pedal almost pull itself down to the floor boards ( when the pedal is pressed half way down it will continue goingdown even when you take the pressure off - looks wierd ). From my previous post on checking fluid levels Checking the level of the clutch fluid is easy its the same reservoir
Quote Toronto230GE - 652005 811 PM Can anyone tell me the parts numbers for the clutch pressure plate a slave cylinder pilot bearing. 1987 230GE. thanks in advance Peter Hi Peter Here are some part numbers from my records of my G before I got it so the part numbers may have changed but they are for my 85 230GE with the same 5-speed you have. These are from 1996 from a Europa bill. clutch disc 009
I have just bought a clutch for a 230 1988 disc 006 250 88 03 Pressure plate 003 250 47 04 I cross refered theses numbers to FGS who supplied a complete kit for Â147-00 I certainly wouldnt use a 300 GD part
The electromagnet clutch is built into the pulley at the front of the compressor. It contains a thermal fuse which blows if the belt slips enough to generate the heat. That fuse is not replaceable as a separate part. Turn the compressor clockwise (from the front) by hand to determine if it turns easily and smoothly. Also disconnect the connector and measure the clutch coil resistance to ground. These
Hi bleeding is easy I couldnt seem to bleed it normally by opening and closing the valve but it bled up easily by reverse bleeding to do this I reccomend a 60ml syringe 3 from a pet shop and a length of clear hose. make sure the clutch master cylinder is empty then fill the syringe with brake fluid attach the clear hose and purge the air from the hose. Then loosen the bleeder 1 turn and attach the
I finaly got the work done by a garage (family) in order to get a discount i had to help which ment i seen the parts that come out and what had to be done. All garages should offer this service or to watch or something. know what your paying for then. Basicalt the clutch had bent a couple of the teeth bits and one had snapped off. Also fluid from the release bearing (think its called that) the bit that compresses the clutch had been leaking too. I got it all replaced and it works fine now.
Quote frianm - 8192005 751 AM I am reworking my cooling system and have been stymied on the part number for this fan and clutch. I am new to this and probably need help on finding sources for parts. I called a place that advertizes on this forum but was curtly told to get a part number before they would help me. My 280Ge is new to me and I love it Thanks in advance - Ian Ian 1.) If a seller (and I
where two screws holding the motor casing on undo these and pull the casing off to reveal the rotor and actuator. Look closely at the rotor end which is towards the tube end of the larger cylinder you should see a sort of structure holding two blocks of copper either side of the rotor. Theses are the bushes and in my case these where the problem as they had worn out (after 60K miles come on mercedes).
up date i disconnected both ends of the 2 gear linkage cables and gave them a good greese on the ends under the ashtray..i could not get to the cable in the engine -it seems sealed.. i also pumped the clutch and it seemed to work fine afterwards so air in the system it could very well be..and as futfuther proof i just read while looking for bleeding instructions that the clutch and brakes share the
You also sound like a guy who knows [vulgarity omitted] i e your quote never work on electrical circuits until you have confirmed the circuit is dead will never fix a car because if you can not read what output the components are generating you will never be able to fix them. This sounds like the u k clubs - hand out the names and adresses of all the dealerships who you can trust to fix your mercedes.
Wow Did you remove your entire front end just for Fan clutch Im even more discouraged that Im currently trying to remove the fan clutch on my c280 and with no success so far
Try disconnecting the wire at the SC...........using a length of heavy wire with an alligator clip each end......apply 12V from the battery to the SC.....should snap closed Try it first on your old clutch.........dont forget to complete the circuit back to the battery or car ground The ground connection of the SC also needs checking......shouldnt be a problem but a quick check would be to use your
I took the (financial) plunge and replaced everything -clutch plate -clutch disc -throwout bearing -pilot bearing Noise is completely gone and the trans shifts oohhh so smoothly. Thanks to all for your input. Greg
I dont see point in this discussion. Whatever fan clutch does with engine cold is irrelevant. It is what it does with engine hot that counts. Checking fan clutch out of the box that laid flat on the shelf is silly as well. Thats not how it is installed on the engine.
Same Sachs unit Now made by Horton (look them up very impressive company) Also shows a 210 part number though the W210s were not sold in the USA with M111 engines. I got started on the job only to discover the Kommen pulley I had ordered from Amazon would not fit over the bolts of the fan pulley and the allen bolts that hold the fan to the clutch are really 5mm (not 8mm as they are on a different car
Well 910 it was hydraulic but lucky you got the 110 that was blown clutch disc... [(] I too am always truely amazed 1 how great these trucks drive when in good nick and 2 just how totally screwed up they can be and drive really pretty darned good in spite of it. I was tooling around happy as a clam thinking I had a wheel bearing getting a little loose when in fact the friggin hub was broke in 6 pieces Im not proud of it but the fact is the G soldiered on. -Dave G.
Hi Leon Checking the level of the clutch fluid is easy its the same reservoir as the brake fluid. Bleading is more difficult as fluid has to be pushed up from the slave cylinder. I adapted a easy bleed brake bleeder to deliver fluid to the blead nipple. I then discovered that the nipple is very hard to turn with a conventional spanner took out two notches from the sides of a deep socket to allow the
Quote ...a hardgrinding spot for an inch or so then back to normal.... This really could be any point in the system where metal slides on metal. Anywhere from the pistons in the bores of the master or slave cylinder (though youd be less likely to feel roughness from the slave) to any of the pivot points in the pedal mechanism to the throwou bering sliding on the input shaft sleeve. If your clutch fluid
The clutch for my Ford Superduty retails at 370. Using my construction business as referral the dealer gave me 100 discount. Try that with MB or call Duval.
Callemail Dr. Fatty at BuyEuroParts.com - Wholesale European Parts - mercedes BMW Volvo Saab Porsche and more and speak to him about what your options are. Hell know what brand is OEM should you decide to go that route or he can get you an OE one for less than 600 Ill bet. Ask for the Poosy discount for the best deal. This guy really knows his stuff and wont sell junk (like URO stuff.) Dan
Thanks to everyone for the help and ohlord.... Anybody have a link to the DIY of the link to a great place to get the connector cheap I know it seems like im lazy but im really busy and just really appreciate any help to speed this task alone.... Does anyone know if when i change the connector if only mercedes can reset the code or can i just disconnect the battery as usual thanks again
I cut my old one off with a sawzall. I didnt have the tools to disconnect it. It was actually not broken but I was doing the waterpump. A new fan clutch was cheaper than ordering the tool to remove it.
Just wanted to follow up for anyone looking for these specialized tools. I received my order and the wrenches are well made and worked perfectly. They are plenty long enough to clear the engine and shroud and give good leverage. Obviously these are probably made in China but at 35 plus S&H they are far cheaper than MB dealer at 180 or 150 if you have a discount. The seller was ZDMAK and I found them by searching for mercedes Fan tools on eBay.
The console lock is only for the SLK but I think the connectors is the same as is used on the pipes going to the locks on the E-class. Ive did some further investigation and I think I can make a tool to release the clutches. Ill try it tomorrow and report back.
Quote Originally Posted by Noodles It really seems like it is the valve bodyconductor plate which are one unit on these 7G transmissions. Noodles I am really trying to understand the valve body malfuntion (and not piss anyone off) ....do you know if this causes excess clutch disc wear I am reading whatever I can find on the subject but have not found an answer..........................yet. Dealer did
Quote Originally Posted by tarzancoe Codes as follows. 132 214 334 437 531 677 703 815 Error codes E61419-------AC Compressor clutch E61235-------Emissions sensor E61419-------AC compressor clutch E61459-------K2 Serial connection faulty E61422-------K1 Serial connection faulty EFF Re Codes-----see above. Re Data You will note that the data is in C because this is the default when the C to F conversion
Your water pump needs to be replaced. Ii is the whole assembly and individual parts cannot be replaced within the pump itself. By looking at the photo the leak is coming from the discharge valve indicating the bearings gasket is shot. If you are planning on DIY it is not hard but time consuming. Make sure you get a good brand name pump as I once bought the unknown brand name it started to leak within 2 weeks from the same discharge valve like yours.